Thursday 7 June 2007

A long day

Although one that allowed me an hours lie in. I usually get up at 0555 so 0700 feels positively refreshing. Had a meeting with a supplier down in Slough at 11am. Got there on time, but noone else did - accidents everywhere apparently, so drank coffee whilst I waited. Strong coffee. The other attendees trickled in and at 1130 we got started. Did that round the table 'creeping death' thing, where people introduce themselves and state what their objectives are and that was all fine. When you go to lots of meetings like this, you just ramble on for a bit and thats that - used to find it really unnerving but it was fine yesterday. Then I had to speak first and I could feel my throat closing up (due to the coffee?), the more I concentrated on it the worse it got and I had to stop to get a glass of water. How embarrassing. Got into stride after that and switched from coffee to green tea. Its hard to eat healthy at these things as they always get a load of congealed chicken drumsticks, sandwiches and cream cakes for lunchtime. Someone interesting was in the room by then though, so I didnt eat much in favour of rambling on at them. Massively late, I finally got back in the car at 1547 and legged it back to the M40. On the way I called James and discussed options for the evenings climbing. Felt ok, bit thousand yard stare from the driving but ok. He sounded like a doubt chimp and was contemplating going to the Foundry. Reckoned on getting to the tor between 1800 and 1900 and considered that the heat would have died down by then so decided to press on.
 
As I waited at the Calver cross roads I saw James turn right in front of me. We arrived at the same time and considered the pub. Really warm and very quiet at the tor, just Rob Napier, Not_Dan_Varian and Rob Barker knocking around. After some pacing and procrastination we carried our stuff up and got involved. When Sardine area (which has no shelter) has been in the sun all afternoon the rocks get so warm, but the holds are mechanical, so it doesnt matter too much. Your feet slither around like they have been buttered, but the handholds are so good that again - it doesnt matter. Warming to the theme of the tor, although feeling tired, it feels good to be out and I feel light and keen (that bloody coffee again). Cofe and Parry turn up and begin their standard warm ups. Amuses me that everyone has a warm up circuit which they tend to stick to. Mine is the easy bimble under the sardine start a couple of times, then up the toilet start and verbal abuse, then a little extra and some pinches wall. Sometimes I will do weedkiller to if I am planning on getting my pump on.
 
Cofe and I move camp to the RHS. I get halfway on Stamina band - feels feasible. He says I am climbing too slow. I feel like I am considered in my movement, but that slowing it down is to get it right? then get wondering whether I am trying to do every move perfectly rather than really trying and going for it whether I think I have stuffed a move or not. Jon and I spoke about this the other night and he was saying that when he watches others climb, if they think they have done a move wrong usually they will be off within two moves. Need to change this thought process.
 
Cofield is looking handy on Powerhumps and works the moves to get reaquainted (funny how this is necessary when you were probably only last on it two days ago), we've moved the pads and given the holds a scrub. He pulls on from the powerband pockets, locks up to the left hand slot, shuffles the feet, right hand into the powerband slot (I take up a spotting position), rolls over to the right hand crimper and swaps his feet - looks like he's struggling, but he gets his left hand through to the higher edge, walks his feet through, slaps the pinchy thing - oooh hes off! o0oooh he's not! he's held it - effort the cofield! takes the jug and lets out a blood curdling power scream. Effort. Get all excited about trying stamina humps. Get to the move up to the crimps and it feels way hard. They all reckon I am climbing like a sloth again. Cofield switches his attention to OOMT and after a couple of goes he's done that too. Man of the match award? perhaps so...
 
Dave Parry has been working on Staminaband. It looks more on for him than it does for me to be honest. He races through the start section and struggles into the start of powerband. Struggle or not he is still climbing and beasts his way all the way to the end of the problem, getting his left hand down to the finishing pillar, before he can match he drops the problem but its a valiant effort and it looks like it would be on. I need to get my finger out! Perhaps a bit of rivalry is what I need...
 
Dave Thomas is lurking in the cave and I dont think is very pleased to see me carry my pad in. Pull on and climb out to the lip, but blow it on the up section at the end. Am utterly utterly pumped. Have 5 and fall off weedkiller traverse. Thats my barometer - if I cant do that then it really is time to go home. A good night at the tor, good atmosphere and always a great feeling to buzz off someone else' sendage. Effort Cofield.
 

3 comments:

Unknown said...

Yo, sounds like a good evenings climbing. I spent the evening sweating in the loft pimping my fingerboard. Basically getting a bigger "back board" on it som that ther eis room for a good old wooden rung underneath. Then did the Simpson workout (as per Moon website) which felt good despite my fingers feeling battered from Rubicon the night before.

Will probably have a session at the Tor tonight then rest before Saturday/sunday N Wales action. Plan to check out the Pac Man boulders (never been and looks like there might be a few good things to get involved with)and other mountainy venues as its supposed to be hot and humid, then sunday in the cave to meet you lot. Should be ace.

Right, expecting a call from my bro about an impending birth. I am due to be an Uncle any moment. Bizzaro.

dobbin said...

Bit worried about this UKB meet mate. Think you are right, its big enough for us all. Cant wait for Sunday! psyched. Better check the weather....

Anonymous said...

top blogging squire. man i'm psyched for the tor.