Turkey Dick rocks

The littlest monster had recovered enough to go to work on Thursday, and I was allowed out in the evening. Was a shame to miss Weds as that's Ed's day off, who shall henceforth be known as the dark horse following his stealth ascent of Caviar. Neither he or Paul could make it, so just Big D and me headed out. Conditions on the car-is-it-worth-going-to-Rubicon meter were not favorable so we decided to check out Turkey Dip rocks, just above Matlock. I spoke to the Monster whilst we were there and she thought I said Turkey Dick rocks which made me laugh like a bear). Anyway, a bit concerned about Gary Gibson's notorious lack of quality control we headed out. The topo (Dylan pronounces this toe poe) had good directions and we were soon questing through someone's private woods.

I was amazed when we found the crag - It actually looked good! Anyone who has been to Gibson's 'Crag X' on the A6 will understand my pessimism, but I was pleasantly suprised. Turkey dick rocks is short, very steep and actually has lines on it. Rock quality seems ok on the bits that have been cleaned and I found myself getting quite excited. The crag overlooks a small lake and the climbing starts from a platform which looks like it might be a popular place for chavs to pummel their tracksuited girlfriends (judging by the cans of stella).

We both were ogling the 7c+ crack line on the left, which without doubt is the line of the crag. I couldnt contain myself and started soloing the 6b warm up to the right to put the clips in for the Dmeister - thus blowing the flash. This warm up route is of the lowest quality, but having nipped up it twice in the interests of warming up we turned our attention to a fab looking 7b - pedal to the metal. I tried to flash it and fell off the boulder problem start, but soon worked a sequence and returned to the ground to rest. Dylan tried but amongst much whinging about not fitting in the jams didnt manage to do the start either. He pushed on to the top and then it was my go again. The route starts up a 35/40 degree finger lock crack, before busting out right up a hanging groove. I wedged my tape covered paw into the crack and torqued my fingers into a mechanical lock, set my feet  and rolled over to the next jam, an uncertain move off that led to bigger holds and a clip. Now it was just a matter of keeping it down and getting to the top. There are big jugs at the top of the route, but I was boxed and slapping wildly into the top groove. The toepoe says its a great position, and it is, but I was pumped and slapping like it was 8c. Anyway, got to the belay, lowered off happy.

Dylan switched his attention to the 7c+ thing at the left. As mentioned before, this just looks brilliant. Again, it starts fingerlocking a crack up a steep wall before making some wild looking moves to pass the lip. He bolt to bolts it, covering all the ground and working out what appears to be a workable sequence. I have a go but its totally beyond me! I manage the boulder problem start but cannot concieve what to do to reach the lip - its desperate. Defeated, I lower off and he takes over again. This time he climbs like a hero and crushes past my high point with his feet off! I cant emphasise enough what wild moves there are to be done at this crag. He doesnt redpoint and it seems there might be a hole in his sequence on the tricky top wall. We pack up and go for a pint before going home. A good evening out.