The end of the LIME

So thats it then, the end of the lime for this year... or is it!? well no. As long as I can find someone to go with, I'm still keen. The problem now is that very soon its too cold and staying warm between redpoints becomes a mission. Plus, whilst i would love to do Beluga, I feel like I've been missing out on the grit action and I want to focus my attention elsewhere. We will see. If someone wants to go I'll be there, but I am happy to swerve for a week or so!

Today was the day. I knew it was on Wednesday when I didnt do it. And I suppose that was why I was happy to 'fail' then, I knew that the next time it would go down, and that day wasnt even really failure - I had issues before - I'd never been to the top (through the 'easy' top bit) and I was still trying to justify doing it with the 5th in. None of that today. Today it was all about the execution. I think wednesday skin stopped play, and its taken until now to recover. Not splits as such, but excrutiating bruised flesh under the skin. All gone today and I knew that and I knew it would go down. But knowing it will and doing are different. I get more nervous when I know I can do something than when I think I wont. I suppose its the worry of thinking 'will I fuck it up', 'will i have to text my friends and tell them i failed again?'. The secret to success if you are plagued by such thoughts is to empty your head and execute.

There was nowhere to warm up really. Certainly, it wasnt possible to do any crimping before getting actually on the route. Char put the draws in, which I would usually have been delighted about, because it would have meant I could start redpointing without wasting energy, but today, with nowhere to warm up, I wouldnt have minded bimbling up the start. I have my first go and my fingers are cold and despite doing the crux I cant really feel how I have the dish and shout take. Char has his first go, looks to struggle a bit with the feet but sticks the crux dish - for a second but thats that. My next go I know before I set off its 'the' go and I feel terrified on the lower easy wall. I wobble into the start of the hard section and delightfully, here it comes together. First pinch, second pinch into the gaston, my feet are perfect and I feel good. I think it must be good conditions today or something, I roll through off the shoulder press and snatch the dish. I cant believe it, I have three and half fingers right on the sharp lip of the dish - perfect, I look down and try to put my foot on the hold I've been using, but it feels off balance, so I step up high on something I've not been able to use when I've been struggling, but today it allows me to miss out a hold! with the thought that I should've saved enough for the top now I shuffle my feet and body upward. I stuff as many fingertips as I can in the undercut, and thanks to the practice I have the last move dialled. I may be out from the bolt but I know its easy and step up, roll over and I'm on the jugs. I can hear my shallow gasped breathing. I try to make myself take a minute but I sort of know its now or never. I think I had nightmares of getting to this point and fluffing the easy top bit, so I commit and give it everything. My right hand goes up and I've remembered how to hold the hold, I rock up right and my left darts out to a high edge - its an ok hold, but its not as good as you'd hope for at this point. I dont allow myself the luxury of a pause, BANG I've got the top! I dont feel as though I have had to fight as hard as I thought I would. I clip the belay and feel a muted sense of success. Part of this is because I dont want to be gloating when Char hasnt finished, and part of it I cant explain. I think I felt more pleased when I did the Sissy. Perhaps it will be a slow burning happiness that I will buzz off all week.

Char says his congrats, I clean the holds and lower off. His next go looks fantastic. He is all over it, and I totally think its on, but after a second on the dish he's off. I dont believe it. He lowers down and gets the redpoint willies. I dick around and talk shite. His next go looks good to the crux, his body seems tight in to the rock and I know he's not coming off. He reaches past the crux and steps up, then he really seems to struggle taking the undercut, I brace ready to hold his fall, but he's still on and rolls over into the break! whooo hooo! I shout something. He carries on, but really looks to be having to try on the top wall I am terrified that I have projected my failure onto him, but thank goodness he punches through and clips the belay. Nice one! phewweee! a good day out.

We pack our stuff and I head to BBG north to meet Dylan and Scouse on the Terrace. Its lovely in the burbage valley. I realise how much I have been longing for a different view!