Just a little bit more

In the space of a week autumn's really started. Last Sunday I drove down Froggatt pass and the leaves were green and on the branches, this week they were orange and swirling around the car. It was cold and there was a fair breeze - good redpointing weather? possibly too cold first thing. Met Char and Ed at Rubicon and set about warming up. The rock felt cold and I think I might have traversed too much on my first pull on. I'm very specific about what does and doesn't work for me as a warm up. Too much and I get a bit too pumped and dont manage to shake it off for ages (if at all), too little and I risk getting the flash pump when I first try something hard.

Char and I put the clips in Zeke and I set off for a bimble. I fall off at the crux move, which is a shoulder press to a dish. I'm not holding the press hold right and I dont feel amazing on the moves leading into it which is a bit of a disappointment, but with hindsight its probably just that I'm not warmed up enough. Char has his working out a sequence/remembering the holds go and its back to me. I think I fail again at the shoulder press and this time take a bit of time to work out what to do and how to hold that hold. We switch to redpointing - i.e. when you fall - no working the moves, just lower down and have a rest. Char steps up and climbs it much better, stabs at the dish but doesnt hold it. Ed Robinson goes off to RHS. Its my go again - feel nervous. Take a second to try and clear my head but rush starting and jitter through the easy lower wall. I fluff holding the first pinch of the hard section, and I know its all wrong so reverse down for a rest - should have just lowered off here to be honest - this is a route I cant afford anything to go wrong on, I need it all in my favour if I am to succeed. I think its within my capability to do it, but there's little or no margin for error. Anyway, that go goes from bad to worse and its Char again. He styles to the crux but falls. Back to me. I feel a bit wobbly but press on regardless, moving through to the shoulder press and snatching the edge of the dish, suprise myself by holding it! but I have only just held it, I bunch my fingers into a crimp and rock onto my left foot, but the rock out left now looks a long way so I snatch into a side hold by my face as an intemediate - which allows me to shuffle upward, my body now in the right position my left hand darts to the next hold but I cant quite set it up right and although I hold the position I know I cant move and let go. Dammit! thought if I got there that would be it.

Char and I both thought it was done and although it was close I didnt feel like i had anything left to make the last move which is a worry, but perhaps if the crux move goes a bit smoother I will be ok on the top too. I cant help but noticing that the sun is now on our bit of the wall and its noticeably warmer. He ties on and as he sets off I think this is it, he's gonna do it - and I want him to do, but I also want to be first. This is his best go. This is the one when he should have done it. The sequence looks refined, he climbs well but again is off at the crux. He cleans all the holds and returns to the ground. I feel fatigued as I set off, and I know this is my last go of any worth. I feel a bit more composed up to the crux, and I do slap to the dish a bit better... again I rock left and this time I widdle into the hold a bit better, enough that I can take the undercut - I step up and all I need to do is backfoot and bam - its done but I feel boxed and fall off again. On an easy move. Dammit! Char has another go and strips the route. I'm leaving the crag empty handed but I feel positive about my chances. I really think it should go down the next time I'm on it. And thats something to be excited about!

Doyle turns up and Char heads back to Sheff. I cant resist the allure of showing off to Doyle on the Kudos wall. He wants the beta so our objectives are compatible. The sloper doesnt feel that good and I cant do Tsunami or Low Left again - but think this is because I've been crimping all day so far and have a big nail bed split which I opens and hurts every time I crimp. I manage to wobble up low right, and feel quite fruity on the press move which is good. Doyle gets stuck in but cannot make his lanky frame fit and objects to the hold on the rail. Its good to catch up and after imparting all sequence knowledge I leave him in peace and go home to be normal.