The Foundry was busy with a strong team last night. Ned, Dave Mason, Leo Mog Egg, Tony Mussels, Justin Plumtree (still looks like a ginger vagrant) and the incredible hulk himself - paul bennett. Much went on (or down) on the wave before migrating to the board. I bloody love climbing on that wall. It feels more applicable to climbing outside, there's no tricks, you're either strong enough or you're not. The potential for feet on smears and elimanates is high so you can tailor your experience, and I love it.
Whenever I go through to the board there its like a revelation. What have I been doing biding my time on the wave? The thing is, you need showing round some of the problems, or if with a team you could work them out from the book, but on your own, with no music - its an effort to get on it. Really good board though. Mog Egg Moger looked amazing. Springy, strong and unstoppable - I was agape at his power a couple of times, and after one particularly astounding feat I had to award him a medal I was so impressed.
After Monday's drubbing at the hands of Varian, Foundry Tuesday felt like a better session. Still I failed, still I tried hard but I came away feeling like I had had to try hard. I think I'm not strong enough to get a training effect out of Dan and Ned's board, I am on it for such a short amount of time I cant feel it working. Or is it so profound that I dont know it? are my presumptions about what training should feel like outdated? Does feeling worked mean you've done too much and allowed yourself to get tired doing moves within your comfort zone? Spanish Kev used to reckon that he had at least one session a week just doing single moves and failing, and he climbed 8c so there must be something in it!
8 comments:
Yeah the Foundry's brill. I've had a lot of value out of it this autumn. I'm now convinced that comp problems a la the works are a total waste of time if you want to climb better (and be stronger) outside.
To be fair Kev's 8c is now 8b+ and is a long stamina number with a crux of about V7, but after a lot of pumpy climbing. That's not to say he isn't a beast! Just not sure that this makes him a power/PE training guru.
"It feels more applicable to climbing outside,"
Is it going to get you up Shirley's Shining Temple or Careless Torque?? ;)
I have to say that last night I came home feeling really worked.
My forearms were sore as I left! (A definate sign of running around in Dog with 6 c*cksville and doing too much!)
You just don't have to try that hard at the Works, if you do then its quite likely you're doing something wrong or missing a jug.
Oi Ben, Brick hard moves are meant to slap you about, they shake up your perceptions and sew new seeds of psyche that you need to nurture in order to progress, otherwise you plateau and lose sight of where your trying to go (Strongtown... population Moger), Up (progress) is only ever 1 direction .its just harder than any other direction.
FUCKING GENIUS! I wanna go to strongtown. Fiend I fail to see how climbing volumes on the compwall is ever gonna get you near ticking shirley's?
You left strongtown...
Shirleys! tsk! Climbing tonight anyone...
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