Wednesday 21 February 2007

Foundry comp

Bit of a belated update on the Foundry comp from last night - I was rubbish! psychology was all wrong and the energy level bad. Arrived feeling tired and sluggish and never really managed to shake myself out of it. Found that I was quite pleased to blow three goes on a problem from the ground so I could get involved working the moves with Ed.

There were only three problems of notable difficulty and they really weren't that bad. Usually at these comps I can climb everything - eventually, it just takes me more than three goes! Of the three tricky ones, here is the run down :

1 - on the board. Go 1 - rubbish, read it wrong. Go 2, reaching for the top, all looking good - right hand blew off and deposited me on arse on mats. Go 3, felt tired. Rubbish. Somehow managed to hurt thumb and crack a lovely deep split open in the process. Nice one.
2 - Yello tape on the wave. Go 1, 2 and 3 - all rubbish, burly problem all moves ok, but drained by the time you get to the tricky move. Did the move in isolation and it felt about 6a.
3 - Fluoro green on the wave - the crux handholds of the 8a+! Go 1 - being stupid. Go 2 - wrong feet, Go three - tired. Sigh. Nearly got up this one on subsequent goes but chuffin knackered.

Didnt fall off owt else. Young Feehally dropped a warm up problem, both the hard ones on the wave and the one on the barrel also. He got up the barrel one on his 2nd go and the same for the warm up prob. I got 123, I think he will have got 126. I dont know what overall looked like to be honest, think it will be quite close.

Went home all disappointed that I had climbed rubbish and watched Apocalypto - great stuff! terrifying!

9 comments:

bonjoy said...

Eee well. At least you should still place high. Could you still win the series? What's the prize?

If it's any consolation I was climbing turd last night down the Works. Left early in disgust.
The usual annoying performance fluctuations. Weekend before last and the following Tuesday at the School I was on fire. Following that i've been feeling more shit every time I go out or to the wall. the start of the downturn being last Thursday at the Foundry where I felt shaky and fatigued.
Feel quite chipper this morning though, so should hopefully be on the way back up at the School tomorrow. Will you (or James) be there or are you doing the Works comp on Fri???????

Unknown said...

school tomorrow beast. le sausage is keen too. think ben is keen, he seemed to imply so when i ducked out of the foundry comp. gonna hit the foundry today, only for a short session as i had about 3 hours sleep. i'm supposed to get 5 hours protected sleep, first the dude taking my bleep turned up late, then some porter chap stumbled into the on call room mumbling about looking for notes about 3 am, lights on full, piss off you twAT I'M TRYING TO SLEEP! then got bleeped at 5 to see someone with chest pain, can't complain i guess. i do get paid. tomorrow thank god!!!

Unknown said...

can't really be arsed with the comp on friday, loads of people burning me off on wierd 3dimensional climbing, loads of people full stop. or curry and beer with my lovely lady... hmmm

Unknown said...

I reckon everyone is getting a touch of the lurgy in one form or another. Its now two weeks since mine kicked off and although nearly better, it still lives on...

COmp was fun. Its amazing how not having a score sheet to hand in keeps you more relaxed. With no complexes, you climb so much better (not exactly a revelation, but a constant reminder that if you can control your levels of "excitation", anything is possible - god, I sound like Chav boy Zangerl.)

I hope to smuggle myself into the School in Bens rucksack for a good old fashioned bitch slapping without a knee bar in sight.

Cheers
ed

bonjoy said...

Great stuff! Sounds like we'll have a good School turnout. Hope my arms are back to normal.

dobbin said...

Sure we will have a good session. So much of bearing down is the people you are with. You need to feel relaxed yet motivated to do the best possible, and I felt tired on monday. Had a bit of a lie in this morning (0630) so will be fully raring to go!

bonjoy said...

BTW, what is your avatar pic supposed to be, all i get is a red-ex even if I copy paste the URL?

Unknown said...

forecast for weekend is total shite.

dobbin said...

I get that too now I look, it seems to work in the profile section. I will upload it again - or link it offsite or something.

The forecast is shit.