Andy Earl has just done Careless Torque ground up. This is a good effort but totally what I would expect from someone of his calibre. Suprised it hasnt had more ascents to be honest, its only highball 8a after all, and such a proud line. I've climbed with the Earl a couple of times at Leeds recently and was pleased to see that he was climbing really well. Its got me thinking though, whats the difference? between me and him? why is he so much better than I am? what does he have that I dont?
There's talent and there's application. Reading his blog http://earl-andrewearl.blogspot.com/ he climbs a lot, as does Gaz, so mileage seems to count. I climb as much as I think my body can take (in a week) so how do they do more? I reckon its sleep. I have to get up at 0600 to get to work each morning and that coupled with hard physical training drains you, you aren't going to recover enough to go again the same day.
There are loads of reasons why the Earl is a better climber than me. Diet, training, sleep, talent. Jon Fullwood went away to Australia a good climber, and came back a great one. TC reckons his big trips have been the key to his breakthroughs too. Clearly, this is the answer. Somehow, I need to get the honey monster into climbing.
6 comments:
I tend to agree that training around work is a serious limiting factor unless you have very flexible work with low hours.
Being a full timer or on an extended trip means you can climb often, when you feel energised and when conditions are good, rather than trying to cram five days worth of training into two shortish high intensity evening sessions, then do as much as the weather allows on the weekend.
My year away did result in a personal jump in standards (not sure i'd class as great!). The more time you spend climbing the more time on rock your body learns to take. Once you can tolerate a higher volume you can effecitively do more training per week so you improve past your normal plateau. As climbing is more of a constant pressure on your system rather than a short spike of activity every couple of days you don't risk injury by pulling harder as much as you do by increasing intensity without upping the volume. Nine to fivers basically have to binge climb in the time available.
On top of that you have can get more chance to travel and take advantage of conditions so you get super psyched for things you wouldn't risk wasted effort on as weekend efforts. I think this motivation boost is almost if not as important as the physical side. Climbing around a full time job is a delicate balance and I personally tend to avoid projecting boulder probs which might take ages without certain success. To many confounding factors mean you could just end up empty handed, frustrated and demotivated. As a result I pretty much stick to projects I can do in day.
On the upside things are much more predictable as far as sport climbing goes. Due to crags being dry in the rain and daylight allowing after work sessions it is actually worth putting in the effort on projects. I think weekenders can compete on a slightly more even playing field when it comes to bolt clipping.
Anyway, rambling aside, I reckon you'd benefit by and nodoubt really enjoy a big trip. Do it asap if at all possible before you get anymore rooted in place my mortages, babies, job etc. You're a young chap with the sort of job that I imagine you could easily take a chunk of time out of without any negative consequence. Do it, do it, do it. HM can be your roady!
not necessarily a big trip, but we need a little trip to the county./kyloe/30dgree board on tour.
in the interests of not spending shit loads of cash and keeping things simple, I am hoping to plan a week somtime this spring or early summer to do a whistle stop tour of key bouldering venues in the UK, a sort of road trip I suppose stopping in certain spots for a day or so, go nuts, dispatch local projects etc. For example, North Wales (Mountins and Cave), Lakes (Limestone, the Stone, St Bees), North Yorks/Lancs (Earl, Slipstones), The County (Kyloe, etc), Finishing off in Yorks/Peak. Its simple, Pack a tent, lots of chalk, tape, ClimbOn!, petrol guidebooks and Jagermeister and get going. Would take the camcorder to record the whol thing. Would be an instant classic, non?
Ed
Sounds good. What are the petrol guidebooks for? ;)
to ensure we only select the best service stations ie: ones that stock Ginsters Pasties, Red Bull and those insulated mugs that double as a socket set, mp3 player and torch.
Can I just point out the dangers of Ginsters pepper steak pastys? If you havent yet been there promise me you wont when I am with you. Man, they make anyone stink.
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