Saturday, 3 February 2007

Cliques a claques

Still this strange mist in the bottom of the valley when we got up this morning. Temp outside was cool but still no need for a jumper or jacket or anything. Decided we'd go to chironico as it would be cooler. Walked a long way down the path past the areas I have climbed in before to find something of Dave g's called electric ant. Quested off down a steep talus field covered in leaves, and found another problem which we found in the guide, and looked ok but it was much further to electric ant according to the guide. Sacked it off and walked back up to centrale. Did some really cool slab problems and then had a few goes on a fun 7a arete around the corner. Felt like it would go, but was both scary and tearing a hole in my fingers. Didn't want to waste already thin skin on something I didn't care about as I still thought I was in with a chance on le Pilier. James tried a 7a+ called Norfolk and then repeated a 6c crimpy wall to the right. I tried, but again, it was bity on my fingers and I was trying to conserve energy. Then we started looking at a fred Nicole problem that climbs an arete from sitting in the center area called cliques a claques. A really involving problem that was very entertaining to climb. Reminded me why I like boulderinh so much - the team mentality of working out how to climb something, everyone having a go and feeling as if it were possible but noone being vastly more able than anyone else. Great stuff. Neither of us got up it, but the holds were all big so I wasn't wasting skin.

Walked back to le Pilier and intended to try the top move, set up the pads and Freshly taped the bad fingers, even sank a can of red bull ready for the ascent! Had decided to do the last sequence a few times to get it wired and pulled on to do the last rock and jump but felt rubbish and like an old man! Battered and body tired. Knew it wasn't going to happen so took shoes off straight away, and announced the temporary end of my relationship with that problem (until next visit). A bit of a shit as it should have been done on day 1 but that's how it goes I suppose. If I had more time it would have happened, of that I am sure. Skant comfort.

James and I walked back out to the soucoupe roof in good spirits for him to finish vitruvian man. Decided I was going to climb it too as have nothing to hold back for now. Pulled on and climbed through to the jump, held but right hand dynamically gave way cos of the tape - really hurty! Sacked it and cleaned the holds for james. After a few abortive attempts, he went for a shit and that was the catalyst for success! Sent it on his next go. Walked back to the car in good spirits.

When we arrived back at the car it was for once, still light! Used this to our advantage to suss out a tresch brothers problem away from the main area called Freak brothers. This looks fab! Start on sloper, left hand out to ok sloping edger, right to jug undercut, build feet, left hand big span to edge and then lob for top. Looks amazing. Also found an amazing feature called tomahawk. If its hot down here tomorrow we will go back up there and try that. Now dark. Walk back to car and feel like body crashing. Drive back to biasca and attempt to buy mince. Migros is out and they don't sell beer!

Still have to tell the family we need another night (when Vik booked I told her sat to sat, its actually sat to sun. Sure this will be ok...) but was noone in when we got back. Went out for tea again.

Tomorrow, depends on weather, but maybe cresc to get hannibal lecter done, then perhaps to chironico if its warm.... Last day!

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