Foundry or the Works

Couple of days climbing to report on. None of them outside, and none of them tales of big numbers, but as a diary of a climber, I have musings to air. Have just had three consecutive days on (havent done that for ages) and am delighted that felt good on all three. Wednesday I climbed at the Leeds wall. TC had lurgy so I went on my own. Did some good problems and then got stuck into failing on some volume jamming wierdness. Fun, but wierd. Ben Meeks at Leeds has (like a butterfly) turned into a hard climbing machine and loves all this 3D madness, I've always dismissed it as a distraction from real climbing (at the board;-)), and I have always thought that I could have him on the crimps - not sure this is the case anymore. The fucker is strong all round these days. Am beginning to think the only way to greatness is to (like Tonya Harding) wait outside with an iron bar! And that was Wednesday.

Thursday I made a long overdue return to the Foundry. What a fantastic wall! had a great session with people vying for position on the wave! Sharples, Stu Littlefair, Jon Fullwood, Ed 'the human pinching machine' Robinson, James Foley, Rob Napier, Neil Bentley, Paul Reeves, Jules Littlefair nee Copnall (congrats to those two) and even Ed Brown from Leeds (down for a job interview). Loads of good problems. Basicness, Napier deviousity (is that a word?) and some classic moves the cheeky bugger has recycled. It felt good to be back on the wave. Typically, Ed's burl and 'ooh, I'm not strong' was evident and there were gasps as he caned past others high points, Stu was just steely, Jon was ever devious (one thing I envy and must suck out of jon is his ability to dig that bit deeper. When I am on a hard move, if I think I have fluffed it I will drop off, whilst he will grunt and do it anyway - thats how he gets things done. When in Chironico I got to the top of Le Pilier and tried to static the move, then kinda dropped off when Jon would have made a noise and flung himself at the top. Got to learn how to do that), but for me I thought young Rob Napier was climbing really well. He looked awesome on the wave! there was some other youth there who was going really well too. I think the last time I saw him he was a youth and now he is a youth to be contended with. Remains to be seen how he does outside his home turf. Anyway, a good night and great banter.

Tonight I have been to the works. The intention was for an easy session. Perhaps bimbling around the non comp wall and getting stuck into the yellow circuit. I arrived and ran into Si Clarke, jokingly I explained my intentions and then said that I always got sidetracked into the comp wall. At least I must have lasted 40 minutes this time. I blame Harris. Not having seen the wild haired pocket rocket for a couple of weeks I was keen to catch up and before long we were getting involved with some green filth on the steep bit. Andi_E kept following me round and I wished he wouldnt. I dont know what it is about him that grates on me, its like he is too desperate or something? He's just young and keen and I was probably like that, but there's something about him sort of loitering around when I am chatting to my friends that perhaps suggests he lacks social skills or something. Anyway, did some scary foot-jamming spotty thing which felt steady, a man with the biggest muscles I have ever seen climbed badly (but kept his shirt off), R-Man climbed using his arms whilst windmilling his legs and Broken Paul B turned up with GF Nat. Bloody hell Paul. The leg looks bad. Was good to see him and he was in good spirits although it will be some time before he is back on the right side of the mats. Thankfully he is fully psyched to keep up with the finger boards and if he does he will be fully unstoppable. Harsh to see one of your friends smashed up. Que me and Harris having deeply inappropriate discussion about injuries and people with metal in them.

Paul went off and did pull ups! I suggested Nat carry a spanner in her pocket in case he gets out of hand again, then she can give him a swift clout on the ilzarov.

Having been to both walls on consecutive evenings I feel I should make a comparison. The works is much bigger (more to do to get to the top), and the style of climbing is more about climbing and less about pulling. The foundry bouldering wall is still, in my opinion, the best moulded resin bouldering wall in the country. The wave feels like a crag - the smearing on the smears, the shape of the wall - its just a brilliant design! not to say that the Works isnt, its like a supersized Edge in terms of the climbing on offer - and thats different. You will always have devotees of either, but I am a simple boy with simple needs, and I will always stay loyal to the foundry. That said, strength isnt everything and you would emerge a better climber after a series at the works. Off to the Lakes tomorrow. Better go to bed.