Tuesday 29 May 2007

Peak limestone drizzle tale

The weather in the Peak district has been clement over the bank holiday. This is something of a tradition for the UK and this bank holiday did not break it. It was also a good five degrees cooler than it has been over the weekend. In fact, it was actually quite reasonable conditions for climbing on Peak lime. I climbed saturday morning at the tor where I made some progress on Staminaband. Have basically decided to go back to the egyptian beta and its working much better. I cant decide whether to rest on the starting powerband slots or not. Chatted with Robin Barker about this and he says if you are fit then rest, if not then push on. But I think I need to have a bit of a shake and some chalk - its just that those slots have a sharp edge on them and they cut you, especially if you are shuffling around in them. Anyway, four goes to the middle of PB which is good. Perhaps the next stage is to climb PB from the undercuts?
 
Saturday afternoon she and I had a nice walk into town, punctuated by coffee and cakes on the way. Popped back home to collect the car and went to see 'Black snake moan' at the cinema. This is not a great film, dont rush out to see it - the title isnt quite as descriptive of the content as you might think, although Christina Ricci does spend a large amount of the film wearing just her underpants and chained to a radiator. About 6/10.
 
Sunday morning we were up early to take her to a farmers market in Ashton. She had a stall to man and I was going to head to Longridge, but the constant rain threatened to be seeping through and I headed back into the Peak. On the way I decided not to go to the tor and to head to Rubicon for a change, plus - as mentioned above, it was much cooler. Only takes 40 minutes from Ashton. Arrived at pretty much dead on 10am and set up camp under the three easy traverses. Did obligatory warm up circuit and moved camp to Kudos - what a treat to be back! conditions on the rock quite good, but almost torrential rain in the dale. Did the press, did the kneeling start, had a coffee and then did bigger splash (thats the stand up on Tsunami right?). Cleaned all the holds and started trying from the sloper - had decided that I was going to try to see if this gay heel hook beta could work for me - perhaps I could get an ascent if its easier - its not - again, could be that I needed to get it wired, but it doesnt work for me! Anyway, after some getting it dialled and brushing and so on I am slapping the finishing jug from the sloper. Pleased. Decide to try the start but the sloper seems to get greasy and not take well to my need to adjust on it. Psyched to get back to it, but given that was an unusually cold day and it was still a bit on the warm side then it might not happen until September.
 
Should have trained in the rings last night but she wasnt Gyming so I had a nice rest! Found ourselves at the cinema to watch 'This is england' which is brilliant. 8.5/10. This week I am going to run tonight, will be at the Tor tomorrow, works thursday and then probably out saturday AM again.
 

6 comments:

bonjoy said...

Lorks! Our paths might actually cross at the tor tomorrow. What with it being post bank hol I'm resting today and doing the Weds thing. You can give me some beta on PUTP.
Had a pants weekend climbing wise. Had lack-lustre sesh at the Tor on Thurs and still felt tired on Sat so decided to be patient and rest for a change. Was going to go out to the tor yesterday, but the Harris wasn't psyched for it so opted for some volume at the Works. Ee well, will make up for it when I finish work.

dobbin said...

Fantastic - it would be good to meet up. I do feel that this year since my transition to wednesdays that I am missing out on seeing people and that is a shame. Not seen a forecast for tomorrow but assume its not great - this might mean better conditions perhaps?

bonjoy said...

Looks like it could be nice and cool.
I made the mistake of letting Harris talk me out of going there yesterday because of the rain. Turns out the conditions were totally mint :(

Unknown said...

Just got back from the works. didnt fancy the tor and as I had a free slot in my diary during the afternoon, seemed like the obvious choice.

Got warmed up and had a good crack at the new yellow (6c-7b+). What a good'un!

Limited myself to 3 decent goes at any one problem and got round all 40, but failed to top out on 8 or 9 of them which was a bit of a shame, but man do I feel fooked...

Was there for 3 hours in all and I need pasta, meat and sugar NOW...

May rest my fingers for the next couple of days so either a thursday evening or may just leave it till saturday morning.

typically, weather is superb right now, but will rain tomoz. Hope you score the elusive sticky damp...

Unknown said...

so, tomorrow i will attempt to leave work earl;y. i'm owed it by angela. anyway, i'm fucked. asd is my bloody phone. i have one phone that i can text with that won't recieve texts. my other phone recieves texts, but won't send them. ffs

Unknown said...

as for weekend cranking, i was at work. went to the foundry monday eveniong. its much better than the works in my opinion.