I'm psyched again! Went to the tor in torrential rain and feeling pretty tired, but it was really good conditions - much cooler than it has been and I felt ok! At the end of my last visit I struggled alone weedkiller in the full sun and found it really hard, last night it was on the end of the warm up circuit and felt steady - have a new easier sequence that takes less out of you - this will become useful for weedkiller chimes. Did Ben's roof first go at the end of the warm up too. Coached Ned through it for him to fall off the top on his first go but get it on subsequent try. Pretty pleased, felt like I was climbing well. Headed on down to the powerband and continued my tempestuous relationship with it, climbing from the start to the end 6 or 7 times but never doing the drop down on the link! Did the drop move a few times on its own but find it so hard at the end - just cant decide what to do with my feet. When I did it the other week I stayed low, but that feels way hard, and the egyptian way is definately easier, but you cant get your right foot out very easily, which ends attempts with me stabbing my foot into the ground. Need to work the move.
Had a couple of goes on the Staminaband start and reaquainted myself with the moves. Need to sort a sequence for the undercuts to pocket bit. Basically, I can pretty much always get here but struggle with the transition to the powerband. Meanwhile self confessed scaredy cat Ned started trying PUTP as a bloc. Having had a few spectacular dismounts on a rope I cant get psyched for this above pads to be honest, but that didnt stop Ned (who had held all my facing the wrong way falls) and after a few hilarious going for the wrong bit goes he nailed the nobble but fell going for the bity crimp.
So that was it. Ned climbed Ben's roof, Rae nearly did the power band, Tom put in some good links on Staminaband, and I puntered around. A good evening. Returned to sheffield full of beans and happy.
3 comments:
Had my first tor sesh of the year on Tues eve. Did Bear Claw and Powerband, both first go, OOMT start which I haven't done for years (will go back with rope for the give-away fr8a) and all the moves on Blue Band.
Blue Band feels really hard, harder than Stam-band for me and I very nearly put it on that list of probs of 8a and above I did for Greg. Can you clarify the rules for me at all? Is matching the first big slot allowed and is use of the Powerband crux pocket required? All rather gay, but no point doing it and then having some cheesewhip claim you did it the wrong way.
I think strict Blueband is very hard too. I suppose really bowie or harris would need to confirm that blueband is just powerband backwards whereas strict blueband is v.v.v.hard and misses out certain holds.
If the first big slot is the penultimate hold on pb then yes, matching is allowed and what you do, then its right to the wierdy thing, cross left to the hold you cant get your knuckles up on and then reach the cross over pinch on pb. cross through to the intemediate pinchy edge thing and then right hand stab to high slot that you have crossed to on PB. left comes right through for the third hold on PB and drop down to the start holds to finish.
Quite keen to start work on that one myself. Feels a long way off!
Might be there sunday if you are keen and/ot next Tues eve.
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