Traverse the tor

Spent last night shuffling sideways at the tor. Almost no going up took place from me at all. Arrived at 1700 to find an empty crag. The car had been reporting temps of up to 22.5degrees on the way out (but they are always optimistic those car thermometer things, too cold in winter, too hot in summer - usually by about 2 degrees) and it felt sweltering at the crag. Bit of a breeze intermittently made an effort to cool things down, but really, it wasnt until later when the conditions got better. Warmed up with some bimbling under Sardine et al and then shuffled my shanty town of possesions down to Powerband. Did the last move on its own, climbed into it from a few moves back, then had a go from the start, from the position it felt like it was going to be allright, but when I took my right hand off to go down I sagged off the hold and that was that. I dont think I am trying very hard, I am trying to do it all perfectly, reading too much in to my feelings on the moves - just bloody well go for it!

 

Anyway, I have done the powerband, and the only reason I want to get it wired and be able to do it on every visit is for Staminaband and so I can get another step on the ladder to being a Tor wad! Sadly, I think theres quite a long way to go. So, Stamina band. Pulled on, down to the pocket, sort the feet, bump the sloper, then the jug thing, undercut, stuff the feet and I am off. Realise I havent mentally reconciled my foot sequence and am climbing it like a gibbon. Decide what I am doing and get back on, get into the start of PB but it feels much harder than it did last week - this is a cause for concern. Rupert turns up. He has a different foot sequence, avoiding the egyptian. Now, I can pretty much always do the start with the egyptian but it feels like a lot of work, and when I am falling off in PB I feel as if I have nothing left, so any beta that straightens out the sequence has to be a good thing. Thing is, that whilst you dont have to put the egyptian in with Ru's foot beta, it makes the transition to Powerband move harder. But, perhaps I just need to get it wired. If I learn a more efficient sequence then I will have more in the tank at the end. Anyway, next liason with the problem is going to be Saturday AM.

 

James turns up and bares the 8b physique (to be honest, I think he might need an upgrade. I have seen some 8b climbers and he is more buff - 8c Foley), and we clip up Rooster Booster. I went on this about 12 years ago and thought it was desperate, but I was crap and it was too hard for me. James went first, spending quite a lot of time working a sequence and getting all the moves dialled. He makes it look hard, but he covers the ground and looks as if with a bit of refinement he could get it done. I feel tired, and a bit scared. He comes down, I tie on and wobble up sardine missing out all the good holds and getting a flash pump. I clip three bolts and have a rest. Strangely, dont feel in the least bit scared. Spend about 10 mins making a meal of the middle section and ultimately have quite a lot of fun getting to the end. Not too hard, but theres a pocket I can only use as a mono! everyone else can get two fingers in, so I need to work something out for that bit. But, the best news is that I didnt get the fear. I was fully happy to go out on the end of a rope and wasnt crippled by worrying about falling off. Perhaps this will be a better year than it has been already!

 

All in, a good night - didnt climb great but good to see people and put in a bit of work on something new. Talking of something new, I read with interest that my coach and mentor has succeeded on the Room project at Squamish. When they were going he had said there was something he wanted to do and that it was an amazing line. Then when they were there he said that he was getting really close but seemed to have a bit of a cold which he needed to shake. Anyway, I read (on the moonblog - sniff) that he has succeeded. Good work TC, a great effort. Sure theres plenty more for him to do and clean up for when I go!