Wednesday night is the new thursday if you are me. The reason for this is that the Honey monster has nothing at the gym on thursday, so basically, if I go out then theres nothing for her to do. Also, the reason most climbers climb on thursday is that they do both days at the weekend and then climb tuesday and thursday in the week. I only get to climb on Saturday which means I climb again on MOnday then do consecutive days on wednesday and thursday. I care more about acheiving outside than I do in, and acheiving is more likely to happen when you are rested, hence Wednesday is now the best night to get things done in the week.
This afternoon (thursday) I am going to the Lakes. As I will be leaving straight after work so I probably wont see her. We agreed to cut short our normal wednesday exercise to spend some time together. I left work in leeds at 1500 and was heading to the board. As I thought about it on the way home I could be at the tor for 1630 which would give me 2 hrs. Thought about it more and more and have no clear goal at the board at the moment (need to set one but thats for another time) and am really concerned that the lime will start seeping thanks to the rain we have had for days. So, figured that a shorter session of real climbing would make me happier than a longer one of training, and headed to the tor intent on climbing Staminaband.
Arrived and there was noone there - hardly suprising, the weather was foul. Raining constantly all the way there. Warmed up and got straight on the powerband. Did the last move - feet low. No problems. Climbed into the last move from a few back - no problems. Happy with that. Richie Patter, Basher and some other dude turn up and get on Sardine. Good to see Richie, he looks brown. Not really climbing, just going on about surfing! Scouse D turns up. Have a good try at Power band from the start. Dropping it at the last move. Have 5 and do exactly the same again. Clean Stamina band and get involved. Hash the foot traverse in the undercuts on my first go and have another rest. Next go sees me into the pocket on pb but I fall off getting established. Rest again. Now I know what to do, I have a seqence and I know where to stand. Clean the handholds and blob a bit of chalk on the foot holds, making sure to be using the best bit. The stopwatch beeps and I'm off again, quickly making it to the undercuts, somehow the load on my fingers and arms doesnt seem that heavy and I set my feet, taking a bit more time to get everything right seems to make the difference and I am in the powerband start pocket in control. Roll over into the good pockets at the start of PB and attempt to get a rest. Shaking seems to help but these pockets drag your skin and it hurts so you dont want to stay for too long. Press on into the power band and it feels loads harder when you've climbed into it! Left hand reaches down to the locky undercutty pocket thing and my right comes over to the cross over edge, I feel pumped out of my mind! try to get right to the pinch but its not to be and I am off. Dead pleased with progress, but need to get a lot fitter if this is to happen. After the pinch theres a hard step down where a bit of respite is to be had before the final furlong. Gonna be very hard to do the whole thing.
ANyway, have another three goes to the same point and feel completely destroyed. Psyched to get back to it but away for the weekend now. It will have to be Wednesday.
10 comments:
Good luck on SB. Sounds like you're making good progress. I think it helps to do Powerband with a long shake-out at the good pocket just before the last move. This way you build up your recovery levels and get used to the somewhat awkward rest position. Remember you can pretty much let your right arm get boxed whilst you concentrate on shaking out your left, as the last move is all on your left.
will the tor be dry today?
don't know but i'm heading there for 5-5:30 to find out
THink mr robinson is keen too. This weather is so foul. I am even contemplating not taking a pad to the lakes - I mean, is there any point? the stone is gonna be really wet by now. AH well, drinking in a field it is !
ya, i just got a text from ed, not optimistic. dave thought it was damp damp getting damper yesterrday evening. and it rained alot last night, i know i had one hours sleep in between curing the constipated of worksop, and acting as a phlebotomist. not that i'm bitter. considering either the works or the foundry. on the plus side my finger is no longerr tender if i push on the old tender spot hurrah!!!
its not rained for a bit. got to try and hit the tor.
huff is even coming later!
Was ok in the end at the tor. PUTP was too unpleasant to climb but Rev was fine.
Dob, bring your pad, sod's law will make sure that if you don't do so the crags will be mint and you'll be gutted. The Stone might seep but I bet somewhere like Trowbarrow or Carrock Fell would be fine.
went on rooster booster today. its 8b. or maybe i'm just being a phlid with the sequence.
yo, can't train tomorrow because i have to save the poor surgical patients at worksop from the surgeons.
anyway thats rubbish
so wednesday I'm dead keen for the tor, are we still going. say yes. my car's brake pads wigged out today so I have my old house mates car til tuesday when hopefully they will be fixed. if not i may need a lift to the tor on weds eve. i want to get on rooster booster again. now i realise i just need to pull a bit harder.
how did the edinator get on. i did all the moves on ben's roof except two for which i need some beta.
how was the lakes?
Had a quick blas ton Bens Roof after you left and funbled the tape box edge at the top which was a bummer. Did the same again yesterday evening. Perhaps I'm cross-eyed?
Was warm there but got decent at dusk. Fully ache now though as I had abeasting at the Works on Saturday too, so resting tonight and Torring on tuesday and wednesday nights.
Morton, after your Lakes trip, dont forget to shave off your beard and swap your sensible Berghaus fleece for something with Moon, Prana or Blurr before you return to the Lime or you'll be shunned form the crag!
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