Thursday 31 May 2007

Torvercrowding

Back at the Tor last night. Loads of people out - I counted 9 or 10 all stood round Powerband at one point, thats not including all the people on ropes in the middle and to the left hand side - bonkers. Why has the slimestone become so popular? in previous years it was scorned and people would roll their eyes when I said I was going to the Tor, but this year its overrun.
 
Pretty damp unfortunately last night. All pockets and lines of weakness showing signs of wetness. Sardine and co are ever dry. Conditions not good at all. As I arrived Rae had just succeeded on Powerband - which is a great effort. Brother Ross was trying Hot Flushings and there were a couple of guys on Sardine. Put my comfy boots on and did some warming up. Everything a bit claggy, but not horrendous. Did weedkiller trav in the absence of my usual warm up circuit and shuffled down to Powerband. Jon arrives, as does Andy Cave. Shoot the breeze with those two before having an 'English' go on powerband - i.e. complete and total control all the way to the last move and then step off. Rubbish. Clean up Staminaband and get involved. Make it to the pillar but feel good! finger slips on the twisty undercut thing and I'm off - but have hope as must have taken all the holds right or something and it might be on! set the stopwatch and wander off to pester people.
 
Jon assembles a bunch of pads beneath Pump up the power and is game for the boulder tick. Suprisingly, this seems like a good idea! Rob Napier and Not-Dan-Varian turn up (on UKB I for some reason thought that North-Country-Boy was Dan Varian and awarded wad points for Zeke in an afternoon etc, its not Dan Varian after all, its Dan somethingelse), as does Ben Bransby. A massively strong Aussie crew turn up and are keen to get involved with various Right hand end problems. Scouse D is trying Powerhumps, i have a go and it feels ok. Get all interested in PUTP and have a couple of goes. Can't seat the left hand crimp properly so I dont succeed (neither does anyone else) but at least the fall is ok. My channel surfing onto PUTP affects Jon and he gets all interested in Staminaband. Has a couple of goes before getting that look in his eye and really bloody trying - makes it through the start well, shakes out on the powerband slots, comfortably does the moves up into the middle hard section and manages to get another shake on the crossover to the pinch bit, jumps down to the low hold but looks to be struggling, matches and has a mini shake. He sorts his feet (as only Jon can) and moves into the PUTP start jug, has a bigger shake here before busting out left to the pocket, walks his feet over and HE'S GOT HIS HAND DOWN! EFFORT! Good work Jon.
 
Robin '20 years of Beta' Barker shows me a new way to do the foot sequence in the undercut section, this saves me three foot moves, but sadly, I have already shot me bolt for the night and its not to be. Go and have a look at Ben's Roof (as a warm down? what?) and get out to the edge of the roof a couple of times but have nothing left and cant continue. Decide to go on Weedkiller (honestly - just go home!) but cant even do that. My ever decreasing rest interval is nothing to do with it at all. Home in the light and nursing a massive split.
 

9 comments:

bonjoy said...

Was fun last night. That ozzy lad Cristoff was a beast!! Did you see him do Blueband making up the foot sequence as he went? Haysooos kayzo!
Might see you down there more often now I'm finishing work and can pick when I visit on a whim.
Think I'll try PUTP on a rope next time. Didn't really go for the higher moves last night as I kept thinking what a bummer it would be to break an ankle just before seven months off work!!

Anonymous said...

i'm dan varian.

busy? it's like that every year. although admittedly not every wednesday. i do like the tor these days.

dobbin said...

I'm BEN MOrtON.

Man, people keep coming out of the woodwork who read my whinging! And I didnt mention the mighty Cofield in my list of tor greats - sorry mate. I was so dismayed by your GreatNess that I felt it would overshadow my own meagre achievements.

Aussie dude was v.good. You can see from the way people climb (in that they dont fall off mainly) that people are really good. Ok, that doesnt make much sense. What I mean is that he climbed like that seth guy, way way way overstrong and only dropping things because it was his first go on them. Do we know anything about him? like stuff he has done? Ben Cossey has climbed 8c I heard!

Unknown said...

its my fault. i wrote a thread about how i love the tor but am shit, so can't really do much there. fuck i love the tor. where do all these striong bastards come from? and how the hell do you get stronger?
rae has done powerband. that is an awesome effort first female ascent?(do traverses ascend?

bonjoy said...

Chris Webb I believe. Check his scorecard on the Aus bit of 8a.nu. He is the top ranked Aus boulderer, sixth in the world, above Dave Graham! Still made Blueband look desperate

Anonymous said...

i was directed here after learning it was the 17th wonder of the world. i like hake but i prefer salmon. keep it simple. bit of lemon or lime juice. bit of black pepper. nice.

i'm psyched for rae on parryband. they should rename the crag Raeven Tor.

Unknown said...

fish
hmmmm i got an indian cookbook thru post yesterrday, called simple indian by atul kochar
amazing
i might give up climbing and just make currys

Paul Bennett said...

Jon your right to be a bit worried, I took a bad fall off that last year landing on my back from way too high, luckily i'd just purchased the 'stupid' sized metolius pad so avoided injury.

and foley that atul kochar guy was on tv not so long ago and his stuff was fussy as hell!?!

dobbin said...

Hmm. Hake is apparently what oldies used to refer to as 'White salmon'. I just ground up some black pepper on it and then fried in a griddle pan with a bit of oil. Mmmm.

Paul - the title of James' book was simple indian, so perhaps its a slimmed down version of what you saw...

Finally, Lisa Rands did PB a couple of years ago, but I think its the only subsequent ascent and a great effort.