Dribbling fiveten fanboy fails again

I usually get up at 0600. On a Thursday I work from home, which means I get up with her at 0600, make her a cup of tea and then go back to sleep when she leaves at 0630. Not this morning. I got up, breakfasted and made a flask of coffee. In the car at 0700 and at Rubicon for 0730. Car reckoned on 8 degrees. Trees on the tops of the hills not moving too much, so not that much wind. Warmed up, it felt cold on the rocks, and I felt quite good.

 

Carried stuff to the base of the kudos wall in dilemma about where to start - usually I would just do the last move a couple of times - as that is where I am falling off, but I figured I might just start at the start and hope that it comes together. The first go is a rubbish ranging go. I match the sloper badly and am back on my pad. I kick myself mentally and clean all the holds again - placing a chalk dot on a foot hold that I didn't use as well I might. The next go I feel light and strong but am almost palpitating I have had that much coffee! in total control I flag and reach left for the undercut, pull my body onto the smear - I miss, but correct, change my position, and SLAP the finishing jug, my hand goes over the hold, holds it for a second, my left foot arcs off the smear, I can't hold it - no! no! no! Back to the pad again. I am torn between feeling gutted to get to the top but not stick it, and excited that I could finish it today.

 

Make the mistake of thinking about where I would rather go on Saturday (i.e. if I do the problem today), and the next go is rubbish. Make it back to the top another two times, but it doesnt happen. For once, I recognise that my best is past and pack up at 0930. By 10am I am back in the house and doing some work.

 

I hope this doesn't turn into another stamina band. Super early in the morning is a good time to be out. The leaves are falling from the trees, it feels very autumnal today. Its probably not far from being the optimum time for that wall. I could have done with a bit more breeze today, but I cant blame that for my failure. Unfortunately for my ego, there are no excuses for todays performance. It was doable, I felt ok, I had plenty of coffee, but it just didnt happen.