Yorkshire in 'quite good' shocker...

Metcheck didn't tell me what I wanted. I would have preferred 7 or 8 degrees, light winds - maybe 15mph, clear skies and perhaps even a smattering of light fluffy cloud. But no, 100% cloud, next to no wind and drizzly rain all morning - Great.

Started to text Ed to see if he was still keen, but forgot to press send. Had a cup of tea, a message arrives, Ed - fifteen minutes early and already assuaging his raging caffeine thirst. Hurried getting my stuff together but still wasn't ready to leave by the time he arrived. We set off towards leeds anyway, fully expecting to end up at the leeds wall, windscreen wipers on almost all the way there (excepting the last few miles). I put a lot of store in how dry the roads are, and they weren't dry at all. Went to caley which was soaked. Got out of the car and had a wander around anyway, but it did nothing more than get our feet, trousers and spirits damp. Pushed on to almscliff.

Looking up to the rocks from the road it looked reasonable. A dirty silver mondeo pulled up beeping its horn, and I couldn't see who was in it so I ignored the occupants - an unwise move. The car contained harris, shiv, rocketman rob smith and the mighty buzby. No doubt thanks to my ignorance they then stuck to us all day long. My romantic day with Ed compromised by steely fingered types from sheffield. Ah well. Conditions were reasonable, although the sun was out and that made it a bit hot when the already minor breeze disappeared completely. Did some cool problems to warm up, then the group split to investigate its separate objectives. Buzby, ed and I to the keel, rob harris and shiv to do a crimpy roof thing (or might shiv have gone to jess' roof straight away?). Busby won points for effort, holding the swing on the chip of the keel, lunging up but missing the pocket, not falling off (but screaming cunt at the top of his voice) and lunging again (unsuccesfully). Ed showed iron tension on the bulb but was ultimately thwarted. I closed my account on the keel. This bulb variant is very hard. Didn't even manage the move on its own, and felt a long way from doing so.

Atop the edge, harris was trying a demon wall roof elimanate which looked fun, quested on to find shiv in jess' roof and got all excited. A great looking 60 degree roof on grippy holds tucked away halfway up the crag itself! Amazing. The approach is either via a dank hole in the front of the crag or through a slot in the top of the edge. The problem itself is steady until the very end. After a long move to a sloping hold you lurch leftwards to a pinchy sloper, before making an awkward stab to an unhelpful pocket. Arrange the feet and slap the finishing bucket. If I could make myself the perfect gritstone climb for me - this would likely be it. I try to flash it and fall off with my left hand on the pinchy sloper thing. I then manage this move fairly comfortably, but find the stab to the unhelpful pocket pretty taxing. My skin wears out and I dont really get on any better. Ed tries for a while and gets to about the same stage. Local heroes James Ibbotson and Tom Peckitt turn up.

All head back out into the light where I follow Andy and Shiv to have a look at Matt's roof. Very hard, and highly improbable. I dont know if theres something we missed, but this looks desparate. Continue on to find Rob, Busby and ed who are climbing a fun looking roof problem. As I arrive, Rob pulls on and sends the problem. He makes it look piss. Start getting my boots out all excited, Ed has a go but is having a hard time - doesnt bode well for me, but I pull my boots on anyway. The crimp that they seem to indicate is the hard move feels great, I reckon i can move off this, but unfortunately you have to distort your foot into an unnatural position to do so and I dont want it enough. Pretty much pack up and spend the rest of the afternoon hanging out. Ed and I leave the crag about 1600. I havent had a full day out for ages and I feel worked the next day.

Back up at the board today. Busby has made me want to do weights. I think I shall tap him up for his program! also, plans for the coming weekend? the monster is away and I want to play!