Beginning of another siege?

Been a bit of a funny week this week. Felt tired all week. Can only imagine this is due to a heavy drinking weekend, which I'm just not used to. Anyway, its been raining, and there's not been much to tell to be honest.

Monday - Foundry, reasonable session - climbed ok. Think I might have seen Helen's ripped like a race horse ex, but wasn't completely sure, so kept getting caught staring. He will either remember me and think I was giving him evils, or he will think one of those gay bouldering types fancies him (is a trad devotee). Its moderately interesting - this is a guy who spends more than all his time climbing, thinking about climbing and going out and yet he still fails to move fluidly. My point is, although he hasn't been climbing for years and years and years, he is still missing the basic skills. And, his is an apprenticeship earnt outside - trading. Perhaps its not the be all and end all! Perhaps some people just don't get it ever?

Wednedsday - after work Caley. I thought it had been completely dry for days, but apparently there was some rain on Tues. Looked mint walking up, and almost was - but for a bit of clinging damp, not really to the touch, but friction was patchy. Things facing the direction of Otley were ok, but other shielded-from-the-wind stuff was a bit distantly wet (i.e. it had known wetness). I've had such bad skin of late I decided to anti hydral in the car on the way, and I now think a half hour application is perhaps better than leaving it over night. It did the trick as far as I am concerned. Warmed up, picked up some youth buzzing having just done New Jerusalem, and headed towards Syretts Saunter (I think) which looks super thin. Haven't ever been up there before, so had a bit of a look around, and did a lovely 6c+ that involves rocking into a scoop off a pebble. Don't think it has a name, but it climbed nice. Moved to Ben's Groove. Sauntered casually up to the crack on the slab and met my usual impasse. I have no concept of what you do with your feet at this point. I just cannot move! Try a few things, but none of them bear fruit and I move again to Zoo York. It feels really really hard tonight. I can't make any of the foot locks work, and after an attempt to do it from standing which ends in a horizontal dismount, I get the fear and decide to sack it. This youth wants to do Blockbuster, so I suprise myself (and him) by busting out an ascent without any fuss. We walk down to something called Style arete (I think) and get involved with that. Both get an ascent. He goes home, I do some other bimbling stuff and head off. Time in the car when I get to it - 18:48. The clocks go back in a week and a bit - roll on evening action!

Caley is a frustrating place to have an obsession. It seems perpetually damp. I am psyched for Zoo York - the line of the crag? but it feels so hard! I think I need a spotter who is a known entity. I want to feel I can go for it without any fear creeping in! Ed reckons if you know how to pad it then its ok with two pads and on your own. I don't think so Mr Robinson! perhaps if you have a power surplus and it feels allright then maybe, but for me, absolutely balls out - its desperate. Mighty fine effort crushing this awesome problem.