feral Sausage pants

Yesterday was manically busy in work terms, although not so manically busy that I didnt take a lunch break at the climbing works. Probably shouldnt be climbing this close to a trip, but I dont really think this is a trip, its more a mini break.

Ed Brown called on Wednesday and gave me a list of things to do, some which are hard (ulp) but some of which are reassuringly easy. Apparently the routes are likely to have very bouldery low down cruxes with a bit of rumbling above - which sounds great, and completely like everything I have ever done!

Bought that 80s birth of extreme film from the Foundry on Wednesday, and have stuck it on my ipod for psyche (and something to do on the plane). Its a very early start - got to be at the airport for 5am, so am going out with her for early tea and few pints tonight, as I will lie awake worrying about missing my alarm unless am medically put to sleep. Hope I feel allright tomorrow, although - I think I am basing how I think I will feel on how I felt that day I had to go to London and didnt sleep the night before. This is different though, I was stressed about going there, and I'm really looking forwards to this trip.

So, climbing gossip - Wednesday night I went to the Foundry. Felt like I was rubbish, only really, I made that judgement after about 2hrs climbing, so think I was ok, just tired by then. Hung out with Joe Picalli - always a pleasure, James Foley, his mate charlie whose sirname I dont know, and Justin Plumtree! blimey - Justin was civil! I've always found Justin a bit of a strain to get on with, it always appears to me that he's only interested in his own advancement and that he really doesn't like me. But, climbing with him on Wednesday was fine, he was good company and I got some new problems to do from him. Tom Pape also in attendance, although sulked off when there were too many people on the board. Its interesting that the hard problems on the wave feel a measure easier than the easy problems on the board.

Its certainly true that each of the three boards in Sheffield have very specific styles to them. Its no good specialising in any of the three as that just leads to being good at climbing on that one. Will we get back in to the first and foremost board? no developments to report there. I dont think it looks good. If the school does remain closed we have to get another board going - and soon. I think I'm missing the angle (of the 50) these other boards aren't as steep, and they have their good bits, but that one was special. Le Sausage has a plan to buy a property which has some sort of suitable outbuilding attached, and to move the boards there. I dont care where it ends up as long as it does. Bring back the board! It would be interesting to have a session at the school now, to see how (if) I have weakened. Talking of the Sausage, Ed Robinson found an old episode of On the edge with a full page spread of a long haired Sausage questing up the cromlech (think its the cromlech), he looks like a 70s Yosemite hero, running shorts and wild feral boy hair. Brilliant. Certainly a cut above his UKC y-fronted photo debut :
Anyway, other news - Westie climbed three grit 8a's last week. Waddage. I think I should have opened a climbing wall, then I could bust out the big grades when it suits instead of commuting and working like a dog. Ah well. Keith has busted out another 8a+ in font too, and seems to be going from strength to strength. I presume this is just from the climbing mileage, and that whilst he is there he cant be training like a shirehorse?

I don't feel jealous that these guys are doing so well - I think its great that I can count them amongst my chums. Everyone's level seems to be on the increase which is good, I just hope it doesnt lead to strengthening the gravitation of the UK grading black hole!

The Cliffords are back this weekend. Am going to try to meet up with them next week.