Saturday 29 March 2008

Day 1 in buoux

Man, what an early start. Got up at 0345. Collected jon and Nic, down to east midlands for 0500 - so tired. Anyway, Neil mawson was on our flight. He was going out to join Dan walker, at first I thought he said he was going to meet his dad or something. He wasn't.

We arrive. Its 0945, there's only one terminal and one baggage carousel, which is great, everything is off in perfect order and real quick. Ryan air must hate flying here because they can't fuck it all up for you. Roy and I have both managed to loose our hire car and such like info. I have my blackberry, so I can retrieve everything, and its not too much trouble. Anyway, we collect the cars and hot foot it to Apt. We (me, Nic and jon) go shopping and then meet them at the crag.

I'm still in a strange head space with respect to routes, I feel a bit scared, or perhaps, I don't and was just really tired today or summat.

Anyway, we start at sector scorpion, there's a 6a crack which Nic directs us to, its great having a sport climbing hero on the team, he romps up everthing at light speed and knows where all the classics are and where everything is. We do a 6c to the left, and I just want to go to sleep, but its brilliant and I love the climbing. The best thing about it is that the pockets are positive. So although the moves between them might be quite hard, the holds you get too are all quite good. Which reinforced my confidence, I think it gives me the fear when I have to use slopers and I have to clip off them and stuff, but not here, here everthing has positive edges. Its well bolted too. You clip, do some hard moves then you cover some easy ground before clipping again. In other words, all the hard bits are just above bolts so you feel comfortable going for it.

Its pretty hot in the sun, so we move round to the tcf section, I don't want to climb but jon clips up tcf and I have to have a go. I have a great time. Its well within my limits and its just what I need, I need to push it and be climbing above bolts to get my confidence up. Anyway, I have a good battle and get it done and we move to Dresden, which is immeadiately left. Its really run out but I get it done and am delighted. We head home and have a nice tea. Going to bed now. Night.

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