Seem to be in the middle of a good weather system at the moment. Beautiful sunrise and v.v.cold this morning (glacier ice on car). Anyway, I will check the forecast after I have finished writing this - hopefully it will hold into the weekend.
Worked from home yesterday, and the monster was off too. I was going to hang for a bit in the day and go out on my bike later on, but it was so nearly perfect outside, I felt I had to strap a pad to her and bundle her into the car. Didn't have long, so headed for Burbage North - which is somewhere I have loads to do, as I'm always reluctant on a weekend, cos its so obvious, and usually swarming. I've pretty much got everything still to do on the Remergence block, but have pretty much no idea how you do any of them.
First I looked at Submergence. Was completely convinced I was close to this years ago, but couldnt get from the sloper on the bottom lip to the good holds that you start the 6b off. No idea what to do and the sloper thing felt rubbish (was in the full sun). Gave up and went to look at Blind date. Blimey. Couldnt do this either - it felt desperate! I was starting with my right hand in the middle of the roof on a good hold, and left on a flake thing at the back of the roof, then reaching round (!) for a chicken head pebbly crimp, then moving right to a hold on the lip, and then slapping to an unhelpful sloper, sliding backwards and falling off. What do you do with your feet?
Wonder Woman Vic Barrett recently dispatched Blind Ali, and I don't think it took her too long, plus, I have never tried it, so that's got to be worth investigating? The start is a reverse of submergence, only I pulled on with the right hand on a crozzly undercut edge beneath the lip, reverse back to the submergence jug, then reach back to a sharp edge in the roof, stuffed the left heel in the submergence jug and come in for the undercut, change the feet again and dash right hand out to a big hold in the roof, reach left under for the blind date flake and rattle off up the ramp. I think this is right speaking to vik later on, it sounds like what she did.
Brilliant, so - thats another problem out of the way, I just need some help with Blind Date. Think that BBG north is somewhere to leave if the sun is out mind, remergence seems to avoid the vital cooling wind, and get rather warm in the sun. Today I'm climbing in the evening, and currently wondering about Caley again.
2 comments:
Couple of bits of beta:
blind date - this starts with right hand on the lip and left hand just underneath on that good big diagonal hold. starting lower just adds inconvenience rather than difficulty. remember its the start of a route....
blind ali - the submergence starting jug is "out of bounds" really for hands, stay on the lip (using the blind date foot nubbin for hands) till you get to the bit with the crimp and undercut. otherwise all you're doing is reversing the easy bit of submergence then doing the easy optional blind date sitter moves. probably a nice problem but its not Blind Ali which incidentally is one of the best 7b+ problems of its genre. enjoy!
ahhhhh! thats quite a bit harder then.
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