The Ace of beasts

My plans changed organically as the day grew. Instead of being at the Foundry at 4 I found myself at home at 1. I still intended to go to the Foundry, but it looked so nice outside, and so dry on the roads that I wondered whether it was worth a look at the Plantation? 4 came and I shot out the door like a dog from a trap, swearing at slow moving fiesta driving road users on the way - why is it when you have no time everyone else has loads? To my delight, theres no snow at all and I can get all the way to the plantation car park unhindered. Dave's car is abandoned on the virge and my excitement reaches fever pitch - I know what it is he's here for, I wrench my pads out and start running to get to the crag.

 

I'd been worried that I would be too scared without a spotter, but thats no problem now. And, I get to see what to do on the start. Running lost its appeal as the angle of approach kicked back and I slowed my pace to a trot. Dave and UKB's Serpico were sat beneath captain hook. Said hello, drank coffee, got started with Green trav standard warmups. My excitement made me feel quite fruity, I bounded between warmups with inadequate rest feeling light and strong (which is funny, because in pounds I am quite heavy - 11st6), before joining Dave under the Ace.

 

He was hitting but not holding the right hand crimp. Although it looked a bit wild you shouldnt underestimate dave. If he can get to it he might do it, such is his tenacity. I feel jittery nervous as I often do when I am about to go on something I know I can do. The pressure to succeed is opposed to the assertion of feasibility. I know I can do it so just execute? right? My first go is ok, I pat the top and dont really try to hold it. I set the watch and at 1min I cant wait any more and climb back onto the start boulder. Failing first time was all I needed to kill the nerves and so this time I fire the problem comfortably. There's no suprise as I arrive at the jug, I knew in my heart I could do it, I still know the secret, I can still put it into practice - and so I did! As there's no snow I can dot the i and do the mantle. It really is 5b. If you take the jug in control and dont do the mantle because of ice you can have it in my eyes, but the completists can now rest their soapboxes - the problem is complete, mantle and all.

 

Back to Dave and the Ace. His goes have improved, he's getting to the right hand crimp and for a moment holding the position. I presume its just further refinement required to nail the whole thing, so I get started too. Its chuffin desperate! I think when people assert that the bottom two moves are 7b+/7c that perhaps they havent tried it - it feels much much harder, and i can only imagine that when you get to the joker you will be imperfectly set on the holds and what I find so easy now I wont on the link. The first move is a bit wierdy, but tricky more than hard, but its the second move that perhaps I just dont understand yet. With your left on the JOker left hold you swing your foot to the start jug, and this is where I go wrong. I get my foot to the hold, but I feel totally insecure, I'm not using my feet to my advantage, I'm cheesing off the hand hold as all my weight is coming down through this one hand crimper. This is going to take some trying methinks. I recognise I'm chewing my fingers up and stop before holing a tip. At this point I am considering going home and on the Beastmaker, or to to a wall for an hour. Thinking how good it would feel to see Percy and lord it over him, I head to the climbing works.

 

Percy wasnt there, but Dan and Ned were, and with them nice wooden grips and a new board to play on. I got quite excited, and not just at the chance to abuse the beastie boys, but at this new board. If ever you were privileged to visit Beastmaker HQ this is like a bigger slightly easier version. This is a good thing because it was too hard for me there anyway!