Joker meets the Joker!

I can still feel the move. All day on Saturday I kept reliving the motion, imagining myself hitting the top again - an awesome feeling. Jerry, in his book talks about how the Joker is a move which once unlocked can be repeated on demand - a trick, a secret knack reserved for those who invested the time in learning. On Saturday I educated myself and acheived something of an ambition, I climbed the Joker, and whats more, I did so the way the master himself did it all those years ago.

 

On Friday night whilst most people with sense were in the pub I was nearly getting stuck in the snow trying to get to the plantation. I got down to the popular end car park, and the road towards the plantation was closed. I tried to do a three pt turn and so nearly got stuck - having to rock the car backwards and forwards in its rut to break free! Then I couldnt get back up the hill again, getting stuck at the farmhouse. Had to roll all the way back to the popular end and then take it at speed - much of which was very sideways. Partly terrifying, partly fun! I abandoned ship at Apparent North and set off across the snow towards Hampers Hang - time now about 2130. Although this felt very keen at the time it was extremely beautiful, as it was totally clear and a nearly full moon. The white snow and bright moon meant I could walk over without my headlight on. Imagine what a dashing sight I must have cast as I strode across the top of the crag in temps of -5 carrying a yard broom. At points in the hike I doubted my purpose, my faith was shaken - I considered turning back, but the dogged mentality returned and I pushed on, eventually turning down off the edge when i could see the fin on Help the Young.

 

My broom was ineffective clearing any snow from the top, and attempts to get on top of the boulder would have been suicidal. The block slopes steeply down towards a 10ft drop into a rocky gully, so failure really was not an option - especially not now, at 2200, on my own with no access to the nearest road. I gave up, shouldered the broom and headed back out again. I cannot do justice to the beauty of the evening. It was certainly worth it. And, now I knew I would be able to climb there the next day.

 

I didnt sleep well because I was so excited. My rational brain reminded me of international wad Tyler hitting the top and not holding the jug loads of times, so I knew it wouldnt be as simple as pull on, do it, go home, but somehow the preparation of the night before and the new found confidence granted me by Moffatt made me think otherwise. Somehow I knew I could do it.

 

It was harder to get to on Saturday morning, because i was walking into the wind and had two pads on my back, plus, my little legs were tired from the night before (its tiring walking in snow). But still my enthusiasm was undampened. I got to the Joker, and to my delight the snow stopped three inches back from the edge. Dumped my pads and wandered off to find Jamie. He was on the Storm with that guy Ethan who we met at Rubicon in the summer. Stayed to watch him have a couple of goes, get a tip over the top but not stick it. I head back to the green trav and those two come over shortly. Its amazing, 10am on saturday morning with totally crystal blue skies and there are three people at the plantation. I dont feel great on the warm ups, it feels a bit slippy (or so I think), and struggling to maintain the unshakeable faith I move up to my target.

 

Thanks to my previous goes on this problem being with Polish Dave when it was wet (!), the holds may not be perfect, but they feel good enough and my goes start at a pat at the top to being a snag of it and then get altogether more serious. Rich and Tom turn up, Rich gets out his camera and starts filming. I painstakingly chalk my hands, palm the face of the boulder, and establish my feet on the launch boulder. Leaving my right foot behind, I step my left to the start jug on the Ace. Using Dave's knowledge I wedge the ball knuckle of my foot slightly against the roof, and sit into the position, I can feel the claw of my shoe pull me in and I know its right. I have a last look at my fingers which are still white, and then set my left hand on the crimp, I lean under and my right hand takes its start hold.... I step off, swing under, swing back out and power power power, my left hand snaps out and latches the top - shit! I've got it! the swing right starts and I grab the jug but in my suprise swing past and am airborne! shit shit and damn! its on! I nearly did it! I miss the pads and go skiing down the hill on my arse.

 

The next few goes are rubbish. I have pre redpoint nerves and jitters from the fall. But on each of these fanny goes I am learning from my mistakes. The possible ways in which I can fail are getting fewer. Jamie gets his camera out and starts filming too. We're all talking shit, and my team are all saying that this is my last go as they're getting cold and want to do some climbing (selfish bastards!;-)), I set up, as before and pull on, its all perfect, I hit the top with my left and pause a moment, its ok I think, I know I can do this, and then I grab the jug and take the swing - which is just like a school board kick and completely my thing - fuck yeah! I've done it! awesome! I do a super pull up and have a moment on my own on the top as the realisation sinks in, and then thanks to the snow and ice on top, I jump off. Mantling today is not an option. More on that in a moment.

 

On that go I felt my foot brush Tom on the backswing, but I also knew I could do it again, and so I did. Only this go went even better - I had it dialled and almost managed to lock it. On reaching the jug I did a chin, hung out for a minute and again, jumped off. I dont have a problem taking the tick and not doing the mantle because I know that had it have been possible then I would have done it. If I'd not been in control or if it had been an even remotely tricky move then I wouldnt even think about it, but the top out is really easy and besides, I know I'll be back once the snow has gone. I do want to do it completely, and I really think I can. And, of course, theres the Ace to get stuck in with.

 

After that we all headed up to the Pit, and then I had a quick dabble on Silk with Jamie before walking out. The monster and I went to see Revolutionary Road which I have to be honest, I wasnt that keen on.

 

Sunday we went for a walk to scope out lowrider, which looks good - and hopefully doable. There looks to be a hard bit going up the arete at the end, so I need to have a watch of the various bits of footage of people doing it to get a sequence. But am pretty keen to have a go. Sunday night was all about Jerry. All afternoon I was excited, and daydreaming that he would start his talk by congratulating me for repeating his problem and that I would thank him for being my inspiration, but of course he didnt and I didnt have to blurt my devotion! I'd taken Foley's BeastMaker to give to Ed to send over, but when we arrived it occurred to me to get Jerry to sign it!

 

Jerry came across as being a bit nervous I thought. Obviously, its years since he must have done anything like this, so nerves were understandable. Having finished the book, and having had it occupy almost all my conciousness over the last week or so, i felt like most of what he said was stuff I had just read, but it was still worth going because there were some pics and bits of footage which werent included. I suppose as well, that when you've read it its been written by a talented writer whose thought through the structure and delivery so that it reads slick and punchy. Not that Jerry wasnt slick and punchy, but I could feel his nerves. The footage of him and Ben on his board was one of the funniest things I have ever seen. I expect there are plenty of similar bits of footage which will come back to haunt me in years to come too!

 

I have outrambled myself this morning.