Tuesday 24 February 2009

Half Power

Yesterday was a wierd day. I started it feeling poo, and as the day went on I felt better. Sometimes this is because of you waking up, but I actually think the cold I have was lifting off during the day. Certainly today, its moved from my head to my nose, so one hopes that by tomorrow it will have moved off altogether. Anyway, this isnt the only reason yesterday was funny. During the afternoon I was thinking about Full Power, so I mailed the two people I knew that had done it - Ned and Andy, to ask them what they did. I'd found a video of Ben Moon doing it on the interweb, but his sequence appeared to be bonkers :
 
 
Within seconds the harris beta machine was churning its databanks and a sequence was returned. The discussion escalated and suddenly, out of nowhere, Ed and I were racing out of work early to meet at Gardoms. The arbiter of conditions which is my car suggested it would be too warm, registering 12 degrees on sheffield ring road, but I knew it was at least a couple of degrees colder in the hills, and that with the day ending it would surely only get better. Oh but for a breeze!
 
There was none. It was still (ish), although standing about I got cold, so I think it was reasonable. Without so much as a warm up we did Soft on the G, for me including my nemesis 5b mantle. A word on mantling and top out skills : I dont detect an issue here, but I do have a point to make, which is : when I did the Joker I could have mantled, I showed that, but for snow I didnt. I took the tick - and was completely happy with that as I knew I had done the problem. With Soft on the G, I actually fell off the top and couldnt get back there, so I didnt take the tick, until last night when I actually did it twice. I do hope there isnt a theme developing here. Perhaps a spell at the Bradbury top out skills masterclass is called for?!
 
Full Power. Never having been able to do the top I had always dismissed it as impossible, but armed with Harris beta there seemed some glimmer of a chance. And, after a night of trying with really bad skin I certainly think its feasible. I also learnt that those blue slip on 5.10 shoes I have are rubbish. They are just too stiff. I have been persisting on with them for ages expecting them to soften up and they havent. I put on a brand new pair of Anasazi velcros and even though they were brand new and hard, the advantage they gave was palpable. Dont compromise on your boots kids. Its not worth it.
 
So, thats that. Another iron in the fire. Ed has no moves still to do, but the link to complete, and I still have two moves to do. With good skin, conditions, beta and psyche its all possible...

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