I'd put all my eggs in the wednesday afternoon climbing basket, so when the day started wet I got worried. By lunchtime the skies cleared and a plan was hatched. I'd rested to allow skin growth, and whilst still not perfect, the glistening had all but stopped and my main concern was over this supposedly busted pulley. It still aches a bit in certain positions, but I am delighted to report that it didn't hurt in action at all yesterday.
I have two irons in two fires at the moment. Lanny Bassham says never allow yourself to have only one goal, as when you complete it you'll be left empty, wondering what to do. So, some degree of 'directed' channel surfing is allowed. The first goal is the infamous low rider, which has taken its fair share of skin and should really have gone down ages ago and the second is the Hulk. I have tried the hulk on and off for years, and its always been too hard for me. A couple of years ago I was shown a way I can sometimes static the first move, although it felt desperado to anything else. This year I can static the first move go after go after go, so when Dave showed me how to do the rest of it I had no excuses. I was delighted to make progress and be hitting the sloper in the wet, so kind of expected to do it the next time i went and it was dry. That time was saturday and I was there with a busted finger and weeping skin, needless to say - it didnt happen. So having rested tues I had a glimmer of expectation that I might actually do a problem.
I shouldnt have gotten excited though because it didn't happen. But, we don't dwell on the negatives - what I didn't do, I reinforce that yesterday I was closer than ever before, and what's more, I felt I climbed well and didn't have too much trouble with the finger - psyched! I still find that first move so wierd, I have ten goes and on 6 of them I will static through it, then the other 4 I wont be able to move at all. I feel that the holds are so poor that I must take them just so, but that with poor skin I cant weedle my fingers into the right place, I must just grab them and pull on. Still, its all learning and I reduce the amount of mistakes its possible for me to make so that success edges closer. 4 times I got matched up on the sloper. I even managed to get my heel out right but in the wrong place. Its fully on next time.
The most exciting problem there is the mighty Superman. Dave was trying the original, and Ned was on Superman2. Both actually looked like they were going to hit the pinch. I didnt even try, but I wouldnt be suprised to learn that either had acheived their goal, and what a goal!
Repeated goes on the same sharp holds started to take their toll so we trundled down the road for the hour of power at the Kudos wall. As we arrive steely fingered mountain wad Dave Hesleden is crimping his way through the classics. We chat, his solitude removed, he takes his leave - sorry Dave! Dave M doesnt put his boots on, but Ned and I destroy a few of the classics. Most exciting, Ned does pinch to press jug which actually looks a pretty awesome move. I prove I cant moan too much about the finger by doing low right and low left presses, and even getting to the top of Tsunami. I try in vain to traverse back left after low left press (to do the simpson link), but its chuffin desperate. I think I need to get the trav wired.
On the way home we hear from Dan Constant Variable who reports that strong Aussie monster Sharik (sp?) has done the Staminaband/PUTP link. This is incredible! For two reasons - it means its climbable, and secondly - its 8c+! WADDAGE!
So now the big question is - Saturday. Where to go? I have two problems I want to do, and I guess I am equally close to either. On one hand, my skin is still thin (but concievably will be better by then) so maybe Hulk is better whilst it recovers? on the other, I am very aware I have limited time to get the rider before its too warm. I think the weather shall decide for me anyway!
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