Thursday 5 March 2009

Rubicon pre season friendly

Yesterday the big dilemma was whether to go out or to train. I wanted to go on the Ace, but it was snowing and I had no spotter. Paulo was stuck in sheff city centre, and had I fannied around going back in to get him and then back out again I would loose half an hour of light. I happened upon a compromise - training and going out - Kudos wall!

All pretty dry, undercut on tsunami a bit slippy wet and the back of the low left start pocket wet at the back but totally climbable. Timed it perfect too. Arrived at about 1600, and the sun was still on the wall, but only minutes from dropping behind the hill. Warmed up in a t shirt and it was a balmy 12 degrees. As soon as the sun went down the temps dropped to 8 degrees, and I got stuck in :


The Press (low left sit start) from dobbin on Vimeo.

On my first try I got to the press crimp, but I didnt have it right and hit but didnt hold the finishing jug. There were a couple more abortive goes between then and that, and even on that go I really had to throw for the jug. I think with a little bit more composure I could do it real smooth.

I tried to visualise like Jerry - 'it would be just like me to do this now' was what I told myself, but actually - 'it would be just like me to shake all the way to the top like a shitting dog and fall off the jugs' was what I actually believed. Its all very well this mental management stuff, but you have to convince yourself, and I am a big sceptic. My past, experience is weighted too heavily. This I have to deal with. I know what I'm like, and so I expect to live up to what I think I will do. What I need to do is to convince myself that I WILL do it. I monitored my arousal throughout (!) last night too. On my first go, I was chilled and I climbed smoothly and cooly, but didnt quite have the last hold right. On the next goes I was over excited (too aroused!) because I knew I was going to be able to do it. I had to take a moment to try to calm myself down before setting off.

Anyway, I went back on Tsunami and got to the undercut but slipped off and got the fear. Finished the evening on the motherboard with Miles, Mini Pickles and Dr Pinch.

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