Tuesday 3 March 2009

Bowder bum

There's a chapter in Jerry's book about him and Kurt 'Big Guts' Albert going to Borrowdale to do some hard routes, only they discover the Bowderstone and never get onto the crag proper. These days its quite normal to drive all the way to the Lakes with no intention of going anywhere else. If you've not been, the Bowderstone is an awe inspiring sight. A square column, sitting on its long edge in the valley bottom, creates two overhanging faces which climb like steep boards. Brilliant. The rock type lends itself to shattering and pinchy edgey types of holds, but as the hold surfaces are shear planes, they can be smooth.

I think the best way to approach the stone is with a team and padS. I had a honey monster a pad, which shouldnt have been prohibitive, but what you must consider is that the climbing on the stone is hard, and the holds are often a bit slippy. Twice I thought I was locked into a position and was dramatically spat off, once recovering before the ground and the other time, landing on my arse. The ground is hard, and i missed the pads.

I'd set my sights on doing Jerry's Impropa Opera which is what I landed on my arse off. Whilst she watched, I tried and tried again before eventually sticking the hold I'd been aiming for, I shouted 'Got it!' and swung out, back in and then schlipp! I was groundward, my arse my cushion. Ouch. I dusted myself off and got it done. The bruising would never really appear but I spent the next day hobbling. Finished the day off doing Ears of Perception which I had nearly done on a previous visit.

We were staying just above Keswick at a nice hotel called the 'Cottage in the wood'. Ate and drank too much, did some walking, back on Sunday. Nice little break. Went and had a quick go on Full Power yesterday, but i dont think it was great nic and I didnt do very well.

This weekend its the CWIM comp. Ed Robinson, Rob Napier, Diane Merrick and I are team Foundry. I am even planning to mend the Jazz pants ready to show Kilian Fishburger a thing or two. That is, unless its good conditions outside, and then a massive list of projects awaits!

No comments: