If you are injured, you climbed or trained when one of the following three conditions was true :
1) You were tired
2) You didn't warm up
3) You were ill
2) You didn't warm up
3) You were ill
Recognising when your enthusiasm/psyche says 'its ok - go climb' but you should actually stay home is nearly the most difficult bit of climbing. Here (briefly) is the sum of the days leading up to the current trouble. Wednesday - big day out. Crushed everything, climbed well. Happy. Friday - up early and out trying low rider - first mistake. Skin was utterly nailed, tore new holes and still didnt do the problem. Saturday morning - rubicon with Dr Pinch, tired when arrived, terrible skin - weeping and requiring extra crimp power to even stay attached to wall, A2 pulley starts to hurt. Did I stop and go home? nope. I went to Cbrook and further deepened my motivational trench by failing some more.
It ached, I ached. Its been iced, massaged and needled ever since, and to be honest it doesnt feel too bad. I can feel it if I clench a fist, but I am perhaps being hyper sensitive. Going to rest up, grow new skin and try it out on Wednesday.
Took her for a walk over Stanton Moor yesterday. Never been, wanted to investigate whether it was worth returning to climb. Found Spare Rib which is brilliant looking - I would really like to climb it. However, its quite high and whilst you could go on your own it would be scary. Its the only bit I found that I was excited about. The other stuff looks fairly unexciting.
Dave and Ed were up at Low Rider on Saturday afternoon/evening. Although it was hot there was a cold wind and the guys were all making progress from the sounds of it. Dave said he has just to hold the cut loose to do it. I remember thinking that on my first session and yet I'm still slogging back up the hill! Hopefully he will be less inept than me. Ed Robinson has gone to SA for a week.
2 comments:
Don't massage your finger so soon after and injury as you will cause it to be imflamed. The swelling is caused by free radicals and is your bodies defence against reinjury. The problem is that the swelling will stop decent blood flow to your fingers so you need to get rid of it asap.
Ice, NSAID's and back off climbing on it when it hurts. Also gentle stretching to try to realign the fibres.
After a few days start with the heat/ice routine to promote blood flow
Massage should be saved for breaking down scar tissue later on in the game.
Hope that helps
Forget heat/ice routine, using the cold water treatment is far more effective, as circulation improvement reaches far deeper. I've used this method on proper tears and on little tweaks - it's amazing! It's also good if you just want to recover from a hard session quickly.
Dave Mac has a wee vid on his training blog that explains cold water treatment. If you don't already know what i'm on about, check it!
Hope you're not out of action for too long!
ps. I find it works better if I keep adding lots of ice and snuggle up in bed with a cup of tea, just to keep the rest of me warm.
Post a Comment