Thursday 19 March 2009

My Big day out

It was all about Lowrider. I had a new sequence, the afternoon off, rested arms and ok skin. Our wonderful weather had different ideas - it thought it was August. Poor Dave 'subjected to 6hrs of wittering' Mason and I slogged up the hill, unaccompanied by the usual howling wind to find the 'rider shrouded in midges and coming into the sun. FCUK! We have a bit of a do anyway, and I actually get further than before (such is the brilliance of the new sequence) but its far too hot to pull on that sloping crease at the end and realising all I am loosing is skin we fcuk off. But not before my day is brightened by a text from Jim, who has added his name to the list of Lou Ferrino ascentionists. Which makes twice he has now officially burnt me off in the cave. Full waddage points!
 
We trek back down to the car and its destination X. Crag X. Which is quite wet to be honest. I slither my way up Jericho road, then we have a go on Sean's. It feels pretty easy, even with a spoogy foot hold and wet top holds. Its all about the Hulk though, and we soon focus our thoughts there, and after a few flaggelation goes I am static'ing (footless unt statik?) to the pinchy right hand sloper thing. Well, that's good, but I've been here before and still not done the problem, but today's progress is that after Dave shows me the next move a few times, I am actually hitting the wet top sloper and nearly controlling it. Cant help but think that when its dry it could be on. Back to the theme of the ones that matter are the ones you had to work for - well I've wanted to do this one for about 10 years!
 
As the afternoon turns into evening, we head down to the Kudos wall, reasoning that it will be in shade by now. It wasnt, but by about 1645 it was just about there. The hour of power had begun. As if the promise of showboating to Dave wasnt enough, there was a young Jas Sharpe lookalike (isnt everyone?) working low left press. The gloves came off. With battered skin and tired muscles I knew if I was to retain the king of kudos title, I would have to impress, but was starting to get a glassy eyed power fade (damn not bringing enough food!). Knocked out the Kudos starts, Low right press, got to the top of Tsunami and fell with hand on jug, and finished by doing low left to the press crimp.
 
Matt Pickles turns up at a truly professional 1715 and sets about Tsunami. He's trying the bounce of the sloper into the crimp method, and describes the sloper match as 'a bit dense', which I suppose if its lines you want, it is, but this is Peak Limestone, eliminates are king - its all about the difficulty. Bouncing off the sloper is Tsunamish rather than Tsunami. Which leads to the question, if you do LLP bouncing off the sloper, can this really be 8a+? I think low right is 7c+/8a, Tsunami (i.e, no pocket, no edge) is thick end of 8a, and low left is low 8a+.
 
So there you go. Its still all about lowrider.

10 comments:

lore said...

dobbo,
it may be of some consolation to you to know that here in the old continent temps are already over 20°...
i hate it.

Doylo said...

The eliminate is dead. Grade things for the easiest sequence. What about the kneebar on Bens Roof? What about Salar? What about Zeke? Why are we allowed to climb these with easier sequences but not the Kudos stuff, i don't get it. Right i'm off to try Trigger cut with CJDs 8b method. Long live the easiest sequence!

Jasper said...

In this case, I disagree entirely. The eliminate is a better problem and doesn't feel eliminate. There is no harm in there being two versions with two grades as they are very different.

Hulk this pm Dobbin?

dobbin said...

I cant do Ben's roof with the kneebar! never have been able to. I dont actually think its easier anyway. Do you mean Salar your way? with the heel on? again, I didnt do it that way, but in a route sense I agree - it should get the grade based on the easiest way to the top. Not sure what you mean about Zeke, that got easier, then got harder again from when it was first done!

As to Tsunami, the point is, that if you want to tick the problem Tsunami - its an elimanate, so you cant just use all the holds. If you want to use all the holds youre actually climbing Tsunamish, and thats fine, but dont say you did Tsunami!

dobbin said...

Oh sorry, and Re Hulk tonight - no, sadly not. I will however be there first thing in the morning. Let me know what state its in please!

Jasper said...

Will do. If it's wet after this week's nice weather I will not be impressed!

Doylo said...

What is so good about matching that sloper, its hardly an athestic move is it! Shit move more like. Re Salar, Malc Taylor went straight up without using the left holds (bad slopey crimps 8a+)but because he didn't proclaim it a eliminate we get to climb it however we like. Did John Welford stand up and say Tsunami is an eliminate and you have to climb it like that, i doubt it! So who decides? Jasp i agree but dobs doesn't. If you ask me the eliminate thing is cos folk want bigger numbers than the problems worth. Good debate though!

Doylo said...

Good luck on the Hulk by the way, tis a great climb.

dobbin said...

i dunno mate, i don't think its an ego thing, more a training thing - minus ten, fuck me the easiest line is hvs! So you see, that's my point - why do you have to match the sloper? For the same reason you had no feet for the top of turd reich - it's not just the path of least resistance, it's the set problem.

Paul Bennett said...

traditionally is kudos wall seen as an eliminate venue? Crag X, Minus 10 etc. obviously are but I've never really seen kudos in the same way all the 'lines' seem fairly independent (correct me if I'm wrong), albeit a little packed in. Having said that if historically the prescribed method has been the challenge then the eliminate lives!