Tuesday 26 May 2009

Schnaesturm

A much better day today. Still boiling, but we were prepared and got up to make the best of the conditions. The plan was to go down to the blocs for 9, then come back up about 11 and chill until 4 or 5.

Started the day on the bruno bloc, and despite the hour it wasn't great nic. I got back on part 2 but it felt well hard. Basically got shut down making little progress.

To my left ed robinson was at the end of supernova, but within sight of the end he dropped it. He and dylog had worked their way through the moves and were both exchanging redpoints, but it looked like it was going to be robbo's prize. Ed seemed to go backwards whilst dylan streaked ahead, climbing through to the end with more than a little fight. Effort word.

We leave and come back to the bunkhouse to chill. I feel shaky and retire for a nap. The others head to andeer to buy bread and ice creams.

The enthusiasm of jim was uncontainable and rather too early it was time to go back to the blocs. We walked straight to pura vida and scoped it out. It still looked amazing. Around the corner there was a lovely looking highball called whorenrauch (?) With a swiss dude camped out beneath it. In between frenzied attempts on 'rest problems' jim managed to impart the sequence and ed and I were quick to put it into action and do the 7a+ to the left. Back at pura log and schnauesturm (sp), jim has just finished a sequence of 300 consecutive hand movements and is ready to show us this ace problem.

Schnauesturm is the obvious start down and left of the problem pura vida, which has something of an arbitrary start. I manage to do schnausturm and so does ed. Its fully brilliant. James, dylan, jim and rob all make progress but its not to be and as the heavens open we call it a day. Briefly, before moving on, I link from schnausturm into th last moves of pura vida. This makes a problem called one summer in paradise. It hurts my bad finger but I think I could actually do it.

Poor ed brown. He's nearly done piranja when the mongol raiding horde descend and batter up his holds. To make it worse, after we've all been there flailing, some random swiss guy in stereotypically bad knitwear trys to join the party. He doesn't bring social skills. Noone does piranja, ed does goldfisch.

Finally, we have a quick do on octolog. It feels disgusting, and although I nail the jump it feels desperate and I can't do anything with it.

We walk out, drive home and eat. All starving. Rest to recoup skin tomorrow.

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