Post xmas rehab

Well, it was quite different to that in the end. The weather looked good on boxing day. As I prepared to leave the parents Matt Birch rang to ask if it was dry in the Peak. I wasn't there, so I didn't know, but between us and a few text messages to people who were it sounded like it was worth a try. Arranged to meet at the plantation. As I came off the motorway my intent flitted between going to the board and going outside, which would I get more from? I havent got much time, and there would be noone at the board, so the post turkey flab could be dispatched solo... Made the right decision (hadnt been out for ages) and met Matt in the plantation car park. Quite wet underfoot, but a healthy breeze whipping past, blocs that faced the wind were dry or getting there. The last time I was out with Matt and Tim at the plantation much piss taking took place at my incredible slab climbing skills. I have since attended a showpony masterclass and wanted to set the record straight - but delifrance was wet. Did that lovely arete to its left on both sides, then on to the green traverse. All this as warm up for him to do the ace and for me to try the joker. I would love to do that problem. Have never been out when its been in ok nic and had a good spotter. Sadly ran out of time and had to leave him to it. Presume it didn't happen as I heard nothing else (he could also be dead). He goes back to the states in mid Jan - has an amazing new (hard) project he hopes to do. Legged it home, fed the cat, and then over to Manchester for tea with the outlaws. Was very pleased to receive a belated xmas pressie from them - a powerball. I think its quite a useful warm up tool for the forearm muscles, and as a toy its great, but as a strength training mechanism I'm not convinced. I remember Dave Parry saying that this 30 second stamina thing you can do with them is good for a work out (and Stu Little mentions this on 28th also). Anyway, have nice meal - get drunk. Her mum always has the heating on. Its too hot and I don't sleep good.

Drive home through a soaked peak district on the 27th. Drop off the pressies and head up to the board. Definately no way I could be outside today! Vicky fringe is trying Helen Kean problems. They look fun. I have no will power and find myself having a go. Actually don't feel too shabby - lack a bit of pzzazz on the 50, but thats always the first thing to go when you put on weight or have some time off. Fingers feel ok though and I climb well on the 30 and the moon board. Hopefully the next session will improve again. More beer is consumed this evening - although in smaller measure.

Friday the 28th looks a lovely morning! send out an exploratory text message and snag cheekbones mason. Meet at Burbage west where he wants to try westworld. I think I tried this once about 5 years ago, and I thought I was going to have a hernia. I haven't been back on it. Repeated my Nose experience - for those who have not had the pleasure, this means trying it a really stupid way - fail, watch someone else and then do it really easily. Sigh loudly and exclaim that I am a punter. Remember how lovely climbing on the gritstone is. The moves and the holds are a joy to do/use. Head on round to WSS - say hello to Boggo, Simon Holmes and Sarah. Cannot do WSS at all. Cannot hardly pull on. Phone Adam (laid up on sofa with bad back after an onsight attempt on Parthian Shot). Sequence improves markedly and I finish the day repeatedly getting into the top hand holds, but failing to rearrange the feet to make the last move. Stu Little turns up. Dave and Ben (not me clearly) go to look at Famous Grouse. I tell Stu about Adam's bad back and we coerce to spread rumour that he has been attempting to onsight parthian. Its all lies. I explain the nose experience and Stu allows me the benefit of his insight and points out that I am not a rubbish technical climber, but I am a sequence idiot. I agree.

Am starting to get all excited about Swizzy. There are a lot of things I want to do at Chironico. Theres something called Schule des Lebens that has another 8a to the left of it that sounds up my street, and talking to James Foley I hear that Liam Desroy has done Great Shark hunt and has claimed it at 8a+. OOOOOOh! I am going to keep a training diary this year. I have said it before, but I am and Its gonna be great!