Brad pitt

In the words of Ice Cube - today was a good day (and no - I didnt have to use my AK). When I woke I didn't know where I should go, I had heard via Rae Cowie that Rubicon was dry, but I knew what Roy (the master) would say. Starting to see Roy like Jon Allen in Stone Monkey - he wouldnt have allowed a self indulgent crimp fest on a beautiful grit day such as this. Figured the plantation would be busy, but if i was early it shouldnt be too bad.

Passed Adam Long on the way in at fiddlers elbow - whats this? adam on way back at 930? surely it cant be crap and he is on his way home already? it hasnt rained for days and the sun is out. The car reckoned -1.5 in the car park, but walking up to the plantation with two pads on I soon warmed up. Travelled light - just pads, one pair of shoes, chalk and a flask of coffee. The grass was crispy with virgin frost and slippy to walk on, hopped from boulder to boulder, feeling velcro like friction under muddy soles - surely it cant be wet.... and it wasnt.

Started off on the pebble bimbling about. Saw a nice picture of Ned doing boston mess in the week. Have always been massively underwhelmed looking at it, and understand its a bit eliminate? didnt even look in the end, but will have to get him to show me. Did pebble arete on both sides, that easy thing on the side facing towards careless torque, and then a quick pootle on deliverance. The lack of wind plus pots of sun was enough that I was back to t shirt. Couldnt do it, couldnt really remember what I was supposed to do with my feet.

Moved to the green traverse, did some elimanates and a few laps before moving to captain hook. Bruised my cocyx years ago trying this with a wack method, and nearly wasted skin trying to do so again today. Adam turned up just in time and confirmed what I was doing was stupid and the way I discounted was in fact correct. Why do I do this? If I dont do something quickly I think too much about it and start to become convoluted. Get it done and do that fun thing just next to it where you climb a hanging arete. Dont know what its called, but its quite easy, and very fun.

Just below the hanging arete theres a little face with a pair of opposing pockets. You smear, grasp the pockets and then pop your right to a chip, I do this and then Adam shows some good problems on the other aretes. I follow where I can, excepting the one he falls off as it looks hard.

More and more people are turning up now and its starting to look busy. As it turns out, most people are either walking or tradding, and the blocs arent too busy. We move over to the storm and to my delight there's noone there. Put all the pads down and Adam has a go. It feels terrible so he drops off to brush it. Has another go and does it easily - watching adam highlights clearly exactly what I have been doing wrong. I have been trying to rock straight up where he sits over on his heel, mantles his left hand right back past his body moving his center of gravity over his heel and then all he needs to do is move his left hand out to the lip - easy. I try my best to make the heel work but it just isnt secure, I dont feel good, so I go back to the toe. It takes me a few more goes, but I've seen what I was doing wrong. Another chap turns up and joins us, I know I am either one or two goes away from success, Adam does something scary up the right arete and I have another go, rocking more leftwards on to the toe and mantling with my left hand. I reach the limit of movement, and stretch my left hand out to the lip managing to snag three tips over the lip, start to barn door, but the friction is so good I stay on and after I've stopped the overbalance I settle my hand and mantle out to glory. I'm pleased and it feels good - especially as its something I had on my own pre-roy list, but I'm not ecstatic for some reason.

Adam suggests brad pitt (his rules are that if its good on the storm it will be good on the pitt). Theres noone on it and its mint condition - plus, I have the best Plantation coach there is, I cant miss this opportunity, might actually do something! I phone the honey monster and explain - thankfully, She's very understanding and my pass out gets extended.

Someone starts up archangel - It looks amazing. Adam takes some pictures, we have some goes on BP, I try to adopt the 'coming over with left hand' beta, but it feels totally improbable, and I switch back to the right hand gaston method. We take a break for a coffee and a familiar face walks over and says hello. Its one of those people who I dont know but I do know. I've seen the face before but I dont have a name, and its probably a nod to at wall type of person. Said person says hi and starts talking to adam. My hearing is notoriously bad (she and I say that she is see no evil monkey, and I am hear no evil monkey) and when the newcomer quips something about this 'ere blog I miss it at first, then he elaborates saying that he is going out with my friend Helen - and I know who it is! and its good news! the person is fiend, and fiend isnt who I thought he was! Am delighted! this person seems really nice, which is good, because the other chap wouldnt have been right for her. She is at Bamford (or Baslow) and apparently coming later. Some more pleasantries exchanged and I go back to the pitt.

Adam shows a few different methods and I inch closer. I start to scooch my right foot up against the wall, and it feels good, and I think I know then that I can do it. I've got here before, but all thats stopping play now is fear, I dont want to match the gaston. Tell adam to give a spot and thats all I need to really try. Do the match on the gaston and confidence gets massive boost - it feels really steady, but I dont think I can move up.

The next goes are all about building confidence in what feels like a very tenuous position. The nervousness of knowing I could do it is made worse by dwindling skin and I'm worried that I will be beaten back before the deed is done. Pull on, slap the heel on and roll it into position. Scum my right foot and bang to the gaston, weedle it into the right postion and push and oppose with
all my limbs until a bit more weight comes on to the heel and then I match, feel well insecure, but dead point the crimp and with a bit of a shuffle am more and more over the heel. In my subconcious I can hear adam shouting to go for it, and I've managed to move up just enough to pop to the top jug... Bang! I lash out like my life depends on it and I'm there! Adam yells, I yell, I pull up so fast I pull my feet off the holds and I'm on top - AAAARGHHGHHGHG! I've done brad pitt! get in! very happy.

Shout some gentle abuse at Jon Barton and collect all my belongings, planning to check out help the young before finishing for the day. I have split a tip but am full of beans and keen for more.

Adam explains, demonstrates and chats to a mancunian dude about chamonix. Jim turns up. I dont know if I can hold the hold as right hand is bleeding and skin tres thin. Jim dispatches and I pack up and walk down.

A really good day out. And hasnt it been better than flailing at rubicon? god yes. This programme of Roy's feels like am being made to rediscover the joy of climbing, and its really made me appreciate being out with people. Operating in isolation is ok, but when you are working something new out I think its invaluable to be with others. Plus, its really nice to get to know new people. Its going to be a best ever year for me at this rate, I am doing more climbing than ever before, and rediscovering what I loved about it in the first place.