Thursday, 3 April 2008

Bolt Therapy

I feel disappointed with myself for missing the last day climbing in France. I think I would have liked Volx too. I mean, its got everything I like - easier grades (than Buoux at any rate) big reassuring ring bolts, steepness and its a dirty cave. I did feel terrible though - just wish I had at least pulled on. What a waste.
 
I also feel disappointed that I wasn't braver. Nic said I looked to be going allright on day 1, but I know that I had to make myself do it. Mentioned this to Jon, and he reckons its just that I haven't done many routes over the last few years. Plus, I suppose Buoux is quite a good place to go for a baptism of fire - its high (40m in places) and run out (but well bolted). I blame James Foley - as he refuses to do routes, even when its summer. Well James foley, not this year. This summer I am going to go to Malham with Jon Fulwood, to crush the Peak with dave Mason, and, as of last night - adding Harry 9 to my list of route climbing chums.
 
As I write this, I wonder whether part of this malaise is the knowledge that the rest of the team are still out there, and really - perhaps its just jealousy!
 
So, since returning I have actually been to the wall three times (in two days!) although, last night was just to visit Helen (whose birthday it was) and to deliver presents. Paul's Nat popped over to say hello too which was nice, and Harry and I arranged a union of man and beast to do hard sport climbing. So, with him and Dave Mason, and even Mighty Fulwood, its all looking like I might get to do some clipping this summer after all!
 
Also met with Tim and Anne and J at Leeds yesterday lunchtime. J is a proper little toddler now, very cute, waddling round pinching chalk to draw on the mats. She has loads of energy and you just cannot take an eye off her as she races off at every opportunity. Parents look well too, it was good to see them, and plans for our trip were discussed and hatched. Am so psyched. I think on the Friday before we come back the four of us are going to have a skiing lesson (J in childcare), as theres still loads of snow up in Whistler! wooo woooo! am so looking forwards to it. And to getting the tour from TC. Even suggested the idea of doing the big Chief, but am not sure I really want to do that. As the words left my mouth it did occur to me that if I mentioned it then I might have to do it... blimey, that would certainly cure the fear!

5 comments:

Paul Bennett said...

She was kicking herself last night because she forgot to say congratulations until reminded. Silly girl. She was also semi horrified by your Flickr set of Andy.

Dobbin, forget Malham, Kilnsey is the place, look up Urgent Action (if you don't know it) and tell me of a better line? I'm more than psyched to get back there this year its been far too long. I'll even dig out my little blue book of beta.
Full tilt, The Bulge, Ectasy, Travesty, Comedy, Pantomime, The Ashes, Dominatrix, Ground effect, oh the list goes on. Biological Need.....
Did you ever get on Rumble last year down the Cornice or did you stay on Free Monster? then there's Nemesis at the OTHER cornice....

bonjoy said...

That's the spirit yoot. We'll crush the peak/yorkshire a new blowhole or two.
Kilnsey's great and probably my prefered crag up there, but usually Malham is a better bet early season. Plus it has a handfull of short bouldery routes of exceptional quality which are right up Dobbin street.

Paul Bennett said...

Damn right jon boy. My supervisor seems to think i'm doing a great job despite all my slacking so free time shouldn't really be an issue, let me know when you're going anywhere.
I'm going to disregard everything I get told by the doctors anyway unless they forecast some kind of crippling, so i'm free to try and climb whenever.
I wonder when WCJ will dry out and whether cheedale ever will..Stuff needs bolting you know.
Have you ever tried those routes further down past the cornice?? i've never ventured that way.

Paul Bennett said...

Damn right jon boy. My supervisor seems to think i'm doing a great job despite all my slacking so free time shouldn't really be an issue, let me know when you're going anywhere.
I'm going to disregard everything I get told by the doctors anyway unless they forecast some kind of crippling, so i'm free to try and climb whenever.
I wonder when WCJ will dry out and whether cheedale ever will..Stuff needs bolting you know.
Have you ever tried those routes further down past the cornice?? i've never ventured that way.

Paul Bennett said...

Damn right jon boy. My supervisor seems to think i'm doing a great job despite all my slacking so free time shouldn't really be an issue, let me know when you're going anywhere.
I'm going to disregard everything I get told by the doctors anyway unless they forecast some kind of crippling, so i'm free to try and climb whenever.
I wonder when WCJ will dry out and whether cheedale ever will..Stuff needs bolting you know.
Have you ever tried those routes further down past the cornice?? i've never ventured that way.