Sunday 20 April 2008

Squamish

When I went to pick up the hire car yesterday I got offered an upgrade to an suv. I'd already been thinking that the difference in price between the differend vehicles is really small here, and had almost persuaded myself to get a flash motor, then when the man offered I thought why not! Its only 90 dollars more. So, We are now driving around north America in this most ridiculous gold jeep thing.

Followed Tim's directions up the sea to sky highway (would be beautiful, but being renovated ready for Olympics) and arrived in squamish in about an hour. The house is amazing. You could go for a run without leaving the garden (admittedly not a long run), and the garage houses an amazing board! No need to even go to the rocks! Had a cup of tea and enjoyed a bit of Clifford hospitality before heading out to the rocks (little Josie at day care).

Its just like magic wood. Only bigger, and from what I have seen so far, rougher granite. That's not all of it though - there's still a lot I haven't seen. Did a bunch of cool problems to warm up and got shown when Harry met sally and something called 1010 on the same bloc round the corner. Super crimpy basic power problems - I might actually do something this trip!

tc demonstrates 1010 (v10) and I recognise small but positive holds. Its cold and I am not warm. Do the last move, then do a move lower, then the two together, then the really hard first move, but I don't actually do that one and think its quite hard. Have a minute or two and sit myself at the start. Nail the first move and shuffle feet, second hold is a sharp gaston, but its positive and I can bone it. Walk feet round for the awkward up deadpoint, lash out and amaze myself by sticking the hold, just the easy lock to the top and its done - get in! Immediately I have done more than on some full week long trips! We move to a pinchy 11 and Anne does a cool slab to the left. U manage the first move once on this problem, but skin feels super thin and I don't do much else. The girls walk to another block and Tim and I go up to an amazing 12 that he did a start to - it looks incredible. Originally it was climbed from a jump start and given 12 for that, but he managed to climb into it but doesn't think it adds anything! Anyway, it looks fully amazing, but I don't pull on. Yet. We go to check out the egg - a super classic 11, and I can't do the first move. The climbing here is not all basic at all. Tim explains that 1010 is a very basic problem! We walk through to the chaka demus and pliers block and I get to look at dream catcher. It looks awesome. And in a very imposing setting. I also get shown the singularity, and there are holds, but I can't really see how bad they are, but there's certainly no chalk on them. I,m a bit in awe. Look at an 8b route on the bloc facing dream catcher and still a bit dumbfounded we walk on to see the girls just beneath.

There's another couple of 10's here that I try and feel I could certainly do. We jet into town to collect Josie from daycare and pop in the supermarket for provisions. Its a bit of a culture shock being in squamish after the city. Its really low rise and spread out, the city is so dense and bustling. Kinda wish we'd come here first!

Go home and play with Josie. She is so cute. Such a happy lovely child! After tea she goes to bed and we all retire to the second of the Clifford living rooms for a chat and a beer. Everyone is tired and we turn in at 9pm!

This morning we languished until 830 and I felt snotty and rubbish. went into town to check out rob Smith's recommendation of Mr d's. Apparently Mick Adams couldn't finish a lumberjack breakfast, so I had to try. neither could I. Had to leave nearly two thirds of it as the sweats were starting! Left and family Clifford and us two walked around beautiful alpine lake before we decided to head up to whistler for a look around.

Its about another hours drive up the aforementioned sea to sky highway, and some pretty spectacular stuff to see on the way. I felt really snotty and energyless when we arrived, so bought and necked some more decongestant pills which sent me wired. Urgh! Hung out up there until tea time when we drove back to squamish for some tea.

The honey monster and I discussed our plans for the week ahead. We always said this wasn't going to be a climbing trip, and with her back still hurting most activities are off the menu for a few days, so tomorrow (Sunday) we're going to do a bit of a walk and the climb, and then Monday we're going to head out to the island to check out the Pacific rim national park. Also, the sunshine coast. Anne and Tim told us all about it and it sounds amazing. We always like to explore on a holiday, so that's what we're going to do.

2 comments:

pascal said...

Psyched! This is so great, because you're "doing" Vancouver and my old queen is moving there in 2 months so I'll have another home there too! Things you must do;

1. Generate a list of amazing boulder problems, to go on a must do before I die ticklist (7C and above obviously).

2. Find the best training venue in Vancouver.

3. Crush another few boulder problems before your return!

David Mason said...

Yo get some good pics as well monsieur. Wanna see better ones of the singularity if possible!

Keep crushing