Hot bolted fun

Had a terrible session at the Foundry on Monday, so rather than harping on about it here I decided not to say owt. Really tired this week - god knows why, have had plenty of sleep etc etc. Mildly concerned its the return of the flesh eating disease, but shall block it out and continue regardless.

 

I'd like to do Hot Fun Closing - a route at Rubicon. I think either it was the first 8a at the crag, or perhaps the Peak, or even Ben Moon's first at the Crag. Or something. Anyway, it climbs a boulder problem start which I've done many times, then a thin wall to an undercut flake and stuck wire. I think the thin wall is supposed to be tough but ok. Had a look above a pad but got scared and backed off. Leaving the undercut flake (which is covered in cobwebs) gains a break, and a peg which has been the subject of discussion on the t'interweb. I mentioned my aspirations to Paul B who could be described as a pessimist (although with his luck you can't blame him) who launched into horror stories of people snapping pegs and hurting themselves, and with reports of the wall above being fall-offable, recommended placing a bolt to replace the peg. We decided I should seek the approval of the first ascentionist. BEN MOON!

 

I got to text Ben Moon! I've had Ben's number for years (on the pretence of school business) but its still a complete novelty for me - that I even have his number! Ben Moon! When I first became a school member I had to go round his house (which was easy, as I'd been camping outside for years) to pick up a key, he was watching the football (dammit, why don't I know more about football?), it was the middle of one of those big tournaments and he asked whether I had been following it, and I hadn't, and I didn't have anything intelligent to say, so I just sat mute on Ben Moon's sofa with my Moon climbing t-shirt on. Ooh the heady heights! Anyway, Ben texted back and said to go for it, but to make sure a good job was done. So, now I have to enlist the help of the Peak's finest reequippers.

 

This afternoon its Kilnsey time. I don't mind what I get on, just looking forwards to going climbing. Bennett and Brown are getting the train up at lunchtime and there looks to be a fair wind, so the midges should be kept at bay.