Normal service resumed.

The MetOffice had been forecasting bad weather on Wednesday since the weekend, and sure enough, there was rain. Not perhaps as much as indicated, but rain and wind nonetheless. Paul and I had arranged to go out, and as it was only showers it certainly appeared to be worth a look. I'd flexed the afternoon, and the Honey Monster was out for a birthday dinner with the girls in the evening, so for once, time was on my side.

It wasn't actually raining when we parked up at Rubicon, but it clearly had been. The skies were fast changing, patches of blue in the same view as dark clouds, changing fast in the wind. Air temp pretty warm. Kudos wall looked dry (in as much as I can see from the other side of the river), but on arrival at the Cornice there were big wet patches on the half height rooves dripping onto the bottom slab. Free monster looked like it might be ok, so I clipped up Brachiation dance to warm up. Felt pretty shaky - first time outside since the 7th, but got it done. Took enormous fall from the finishing jug, which was a positive experience - I need to fall to realise I wont die. Paul nips up BD and we move to Free Monster.

Although I've been on this (and very nearly did it) years ago, I totally couldnt remember what to do. Bolts 1 and 2 are easy to clip, then, passing bolt 2 there's a high rock over off an undercut which isnt hard when you remember how to do it, but is quite a uncertain wobble. The break you reach to was dry, but the hold you clip off wasnt. Push on to the next hole thing (which feels more positive than I remember) but its fully soaked too. Its not a redpointing day clearly. Strip the pitch, and with the rain now actually blowing in to the crag, we sack it back to Sheffield to meet James Foley and Nat who are supposed to be at the works. Quite disappointed.

Everyone and their dog was at the works. A full compliment of cheeses (sam, perc, graeme) and the mighty Ed Brown - orbiting the training board like a trad climbing moon on a collision course with stamina. We got stuck in. Paul crushed. I felt good but got pumped. Nat turned up, James didnt, Ed never stopped climbing and we arranged to destroy Kilnsey next weds. Dave Barrans was in. Chatted to him about Yorkshire. He's another one who thinks the Peak is shit. I dont know why some hate the other area - theres loads of fantastic climbing to be had in either. Perhaps I have an undiscerning eye or am easily pleased or something, or perhaps I just enjoy climbing so much that I can make fun whereever I lay my pad/rope bag. It's like Julian Cope said, 'why cut out half the fun you can have', only he was talking about being bisexual.

I have, for years now, attached a stopwatch to my chalk bag, so as to time my rest intervals. Almost always people misconstrue the purpose of this device. Most seem to think that its to tell me to start climbing again when it goes off. Its not. Its a minimum rest timer. Left to my own devices I would burn myself out like James Foley on a bad day - i.e. quickly. Having a thousand goes in 10 minutes on progressively harder problems, so, I set a timer which is the minimum I must rest before I can jump on again, this is especially useful if you're on your own. Anyway, the point being - the stopwatch has conked out and I've found a freebie java applet for my phone to replace it. Its an egg timer, and you can set whatever time you want before it goes off. You can get it for any java based phone by navigating your phone's browser to wap.getjar.com and following the quick download link - the code is 17468. Completely for free. As an aside, the works have stolen my genius and now offer stopwatches to people doing circuits. Perhaps I could demand a royalty!