Far from finding the antipathy disease that rests over Sheffield had set in again, I am delighted to report I felt quite sparky when I got warmed up yesterday. It was by no means a great day, and certainly, nothing went down, but it was good to be out and climbing. Paul, Ed and I arrived at Kilnsey at 2pm and the weather looked bad. Low cloud, persistent drizzle and a school group climbing rubble off round the left. Dalvinder and Aaron (?) warming up on sideshow, met Chris Sowden and got stuck into Face Value. Followed that with Directissima (even scary on a topper) and moved to find out what else was dry. Ed wanted to do Soft Option, which looked at first glance as if it might have some wet holds, but he reckoned otherwise and set off getting really high but not closing the deal. Paul went on Yorkshire Ripper, which may (or may not) have had a repeat. It looked hard. I opened an account on Subculture, which starts off with a few big moves between big holds into a thin groove. Apparently the grade is contentious, and when you weigh up the different potential methods you can pass this short difficult section you can understand why. One method rumbles left into a massive sidepull, then lurches back right to a reasonable edge, and the other involves nailing micro edges in the groove to reach the same point. I manage to cross the section using both methods but am pumped and dont do owt else. Home via the chippy in Skipton.
Got home to find a N95 8GB I had on eBay had sold for £280! as this was a free upgrade, I was delighted. I was less than delighted then to recieve scam mails from Nigeria pretending to have paid via paypal. Its frustrating that this can happen, as my selling policy is that noone with less than 1 feedback can bid on my items and I will not ship overseas. But despite neither of these conditions being met eBay accepted their bid on my item.
Jim Hillyard has dispatched Rock Attrocity in Parisellas cave, which is a fine effort. Particularly when you factor in that its basically crimping edges in a roof, and Jim is not waif like. I would love to do this problem, and may go for a day when the monster goes on that hen do. As I remember it, I flashed to the last move but never completed the problem. Idiot.
6 comments:
That's one of the reasons I don't rate Subculture. I don't like routes with 'issues'. Either you use all the holds and get a 7c+/8a tick or risk spending a lot of time and effort on an eliminate hard 8a variant.
If it helps you decide, apparently the FA used the big layaways/undercuts out left. That's not to say budgie clawed mutants won't jibe you for doing it that way.
As its not an eliminate line you should be free to use whatever you want and realistically it should be graded for that. What it would then be worth I have no idea.
Personally the sequence off the huge layaway is off the cards simply because its far too far away from the good hold above the next bolt. Budgie clawed crimping sequence seemed to be what I initially recommended to Dob and Aaron seemed to work out the same way.
I'm trying to recall whether or not he was the same guy that could be found at Kendal wall or Kilnsey about 5-6 years ago just a bit more aged.
"What it would then be worth I have no idea."
It's 7c+/8a, as that's the way everyone, except the short or blinkered climbs it and hence that's what it's graded for. I did it in a day when knackered and thought it was a bit piss for 8a, probably easier than Man With A Gun (7c+).
Yorkshire ripper is practically a trade route apparently. Tons of repeats including Reeve and Bentley.
Reeve? please tell me it took him a while or else I quit...
And yes that became apparent last night, it seems only ed, Chris and I knew of no one who'd done it... I do like how that escalated on the blog ;)
I found out tonight that Smitton has been on it so I'll be pestering him for beta etc.
Still can't decide whether its worth pursuing or not.
I believe Chris Cubitt has done it too.....
Mr Reeve, legend in his own Lunchtime.....the epitome of Motivation!
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