Hot hands disease

I was the first in to saturday morning club (now an institution!), doors opened at 0915. I had the crag to myself. Thought I felt pretty sparky. Joe and Gav (that was his name!) arrive next, followed by Dylan and Lucy, and then Char. As I am preparing to move my bits to the Kudos wall Sharples and Rob Napier swing past on their way to the Cornice. But finally, and most suprisingly - Adam Long. I wonder if he finds it tiresome being labelled as a gritstone hero - being greeted with 'Stanage is that way' on his arrival at Rubicon, and being watched for his legendary abundance of technique?

I'm sure in summers past I have pretty much always been able to do the press in even the hottest of conditions. In fact, I think I remember so doing with direct sun and >20 degrees temps. This was not the case on saturday - and I did have a few goes. Just didn't feel as solid as I would usually. Am going to blame humidity - soft wet fingers and small sharp crimpers are not a happy combination. Joe and Gav set up camp beneath Caviar - what a great route. I snaffle a belay off Char and clip up Let the tribe increase. Suprised myself by crimping through the first section and falling off at the broken hold section. After a brief rest push on to the top of the wall comfortably. Lower down as it looks like it could be on! Char has a go but doesnt get on with my wierd flag on your hip beta and is back on the ground soon after. I tie on again, ready to crush, but this time what felt solid and possible before feels scratchy and desperate now. Bugger. Although my skin doesnt feel terrible I cant hold the holds, so conclude that must be all thats wrong. Adam has a burn, but is blinded by the unfamiliar white rocks and doesnt manage to find any useful holds either. I go home.

Saturday morning club is a great thing. For those of us with non climbing other halves, you get back at 1230 and then have an afternoon of doing 'normal' stuff, which keeps the other one happy that you haven't swanned off all weekend. Talking of which, Saturday morning club is going to be sunday morning club this week. The monster is in Manchester on Saturday night, so I was thinking about trying to rustle some folks Wales wards. Potentially, my plan is to take her to manchester on saturday night, then continue on to Wales. Sleep in the cave (or camp somewhere) and then crank in the morning, making my way homeward in the afternoon.

Got a text from James Foley last night. He has really damaged his finger. Doesnt know exactly what/how, but is not a happy bunny. Will be interesting to see how it feels today I guess. Poor James. You would think he too had made a bargain with the devil (a la Paul B)!