I think I have a rare and debilitating condition which I have identified as 'Hot Hands Disease'. I need it to be really chuffing cold for my hands to be anything other than soft and warm. Perhaps I have really poor skin which wears really fast or something, but unless its properly cold my hands get really hot, and hot means soft. Trying to use small holds with hot soft skin is not a happy combination. When you have soft skin it rolls on small holds and they dig in - hurting the flesh, causing a lack of conviction. Basically, you give half hearted attempts because it hurts.
Its clear overhead in Sheffield tonight, which means the suns heat has radiated back out to space and the ambient temperature is c.o.l.d. The school board was 'in nic' this evening. It was so cold in that little room that application of a coat between attempts was acceptable practice. Compadres for this evening were Mr Paul 'laps on stuey' Bennet, Natalie 'fred nicole' notbennetdontknowhersirname_sorry and Ultra G Dave Parry.
Lets talk about Pork and Beans. My good friend Mr Bradbury will no doubt assert that it is 7c+. Its in the book at 7c+/8a. I think its 8a. Its harder than the 7c+'s I have done. I repeated two fluffy after climbing Pork and Beans (for reference) and I think its easier. Perhaps I have a wack sequence, or there is a weakness there or something, but I think its hard. Had a good session tonight. Pretty 'syked' to do amoeba assasin too.
4 comments:
Rad.
;-)
Mr Bradbury has told me to tell you that he wouldn't argue with any grade you chose to assign to Pork and Beans. He says that he doesn't really care and his main goal is to climb hard problems rather than downgrade problems that others do. kisses (from me)
syked!
the weakness being born with normal sized hands perhaps?
It's evans btw.
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