I should have been rubbish last night, so I'd planned either to have a very easy session at the board, or just to go to the works and get an easy circuit done. I wouldn't have climbed at all, but the Honey monster was going to the gym, so I had time. Its ages since I have had four days on, my fingers and arms felt tired, but once warmed up I felt ok. Some new problems on the barrel at the works which climbed well. Having dispatched those, I realised I had only one problem to do and I would have done everything on the comp wall. On completion of that I wondered if it would be possible to do all the problems on the comp wall in a session. Sam and I agreed that if I completed my goal I could have free entry for life and the keys to his car. By half six, the deed was done but as I already have free entry for life he made me a brew instead. Still waiting for the car keys.
I'm waiting for the gnome to make the brews and I'm scanning behind the counter for stuff to squirrel away when I clap eyes on this :
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I'm waiting for the gnome to make the brews and I'm scanning behind the counter for stuff to squirrel away when I clap eyes on this :
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4 comments:
Good effort Ben your obviously going well, just been down there with Nat and sam told me of your success. It pretty much points out that there is a need for at least a few more hard problems.
Only Gravity would have a ginger on the front cover
Ben, you are a wise man, you have great influence, why don't you tell the people at the works to set some hard problems. I am amazed that a wall so big has so many easy problems. Is it too elite to cater to the strong people who climb there? Or am I a loon to think that 8A and harder should exist indoors?
Just as a matter of interest, what percentage of the works is vertical or slabby? A % of total sqft would be interesting.
spoke to sam today and he's going to set some harder problems a.s.a.p after a) seeing ben do them all and b) me taking the piss for two days straight.
And yes 8a upwards should exist inside, [didn't someone from one of these volume esque walls (BoulderUK?) proclaim it nigh on impossible to create things harder than V9-10 indoors?], I think one of the problems with doing this though (setting harder problems) is that the people who set them need to be able to do at least all the moves or something similar or else you end up with those two concept problems that were absoloutely nails when it first opened.
I reckon the works would come in as 60% vertical to slabby btw. Although VERY steep would be a low percentage.
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