Kilnsey is brilliant! totally different to anything in the peak, and therefore probably a mutually exclusive training regime required in order to succeed, but I reckon if you were going to Europe there would be few better places to get fit. Bullet hard brilliant rock, great moves and a beautiful setting. There are plenty of reasons I haven't made more effort to get there - firstly I am a big pussy and scared, secondly its totally different to anything I've done before - its so long and pumpy I mean, and thirdly - its miles away.
Having coerced Paul into getting the train to meet me in Leeds I was psyched, then at the last minute Ed realised the true path to glory lay at the end of a bolt in yorkshire and with a full complement of Kilnsey wads in the car I was sure to succeed! sat in traffic for an hour on the way to the crag, which was all but deserted. Ed rattled up Diretissima, lowered off, then straight back up Face Value. I did the same and Paul reacquainted himself (after two months off climbing) casually with Face Value (e5). We move to Comedy. Ed crushes (and I mean crushes) it in nonchalant style, I have a go having committed his sequence to memory. The route starts on great holds before making a couple of tough moves into a good rest, I get to the rest and start trying to move past but am pumped so reverse back to attempt recovery. Kilnsey is north facing and therefore shady, plus, it gets the wind and I've cooled down between goes, I am completely pumped and unable to recover. From my slightly uncomfortable rest I again move up and to the sidepull, right hand stabs into a pocket, clip, work feet up and lurch wildly for the next pocket, but feet are all wrong and I fall. The flash gone I let the lactic acid subside and then push on to the top. It feels tough and I am pumped. I wonder if I will get enough back with any amount of rest to be able to do it. Lower to the ground. Paul gets on and rinses to my highpoint before chucking in an egyptian off the sidepull... but, he's pitched his feet wrong and falls.
Ed does a scary thing to the left, climbing immeadiately left of the corner, but right of diretissima. He rumbles to the top looking casual and then has to turn it on to finish. I think he said it was called 'something for 5'? you can continue to a hanging chain which gets 8b or summat. Impressive stuff.
Paul clips up pantomime, which looks to have some wild moves in and I'm quite keen for a go, but now, its back to comedy. Again, I have cooled down too much - had only my old rab for warmth. This doesnt sound so bad, except that I have broken the zip and had to resort to a belt around my chest to hold it together - I look like a freak. I pull on, fluff the start, pump out and sack it off as a warm up go. Ed does Pantomime looking cool and collected, and then its me again. This time I've only been off five minutes, and whilst I still feel it in my muscles I feel more like climbing. Move through the first section, pumping out a bit but dynoing for a good pocket and getting established in the block rest. I get plenty back and, having watched Paul, I find a new position and milk it like Jonboy. Not quite refreshed I reach out to the sidepull, this time my thumb goes over the top and its a different hold, I egypt like paul and cruise past the rubbish pocket, past my high point to a good hold, match and eyeball the 'cigar'. I'm pumped out of my mind, those two are yelling and knowing its my last good go I commit to an all out throw for this cigar thing - stick it, both feet swing off but I hold it in and roll through back to the good holds... get in! its not completely over yet, theres a few more elephant noises from my direction as I wobble to the belay - elbows at 90degrees to the rock. I am over the moon - the moves are wild and I really had to fight. Brilliant!
Paul goes back on Pantomime, Ed laps comedy and all too soon, its my turn to flail on Pantomime. I feel relaxed and elated, and with success in my mind I romp up the start - its a different proposition and super sequencey - thanks to the pace notes being shouted from below i have a reasonable go but miss an undercut in my pumped state and fall. Subsequent goes get better but I'm well past my sell by date and finish the day bolt to bolting it to get the draws. Nice line.
I enjoy a quick tour of the crag then its home via a chippy in Skipton. Home at 1015 after an hour and a half drive. Brilliant.
1 comment:
50 for 5 7b+ but harder than comedy in a lot of peoples eyes, the extension is all out, 8b.
Good day.
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