Thursday, 19 July 2007

ExciTOR

First trip to the tor in weeks last night. Noone had posted on the UKB tor conditions thread for days so I didnt know what to expect, and probably most others thought it was going to be wet as noone else turned up until late.

Years ago I met a young punk called Dave Mason at the Edge woody. He was a nice lad and had potential to get really good. Didn't really see too much of the youth over the next few years as he had gone to uni in Leeds. The next time I saw him was at the Leeds wall, and he seemed to have a bit of a chip on his shoulder - like there was something he felt he wanted to prove and I found him difficult. Then last summer he seemed to suddenly realise his potential and the chip disappeared - there was nothing for him to prove any more. Anyway, he'd been in touch on the text so we descended on the almighty Raventor together.

I was pleasantly suprised; the starting pockets on powerband were clammy, but I have climbed it in worse (Rae in much worse), undercuts on Staminaband were wet, but driable (is that a word?), pinches wall was dry, the undercuts to crimp bit = dry, weedkiller wasn't, ben's roof was. Completed standard warm up procedure and set about powerband with a chalky lapis. Suprised myself by tootling along to the end with ease, but feeling a bit tweaky on the last move I stepped off. Dave was the model climbing buddy, moving the pads, cleaning holds, shouting encouragement etc. Felt bad for ever having thought he was anything else. He was wanting to try Pump up the power as a bloc and amazed me with total control on moves I found really hard. He looked totally composed and without so much as a fluffed move he climbed to the crux snatch three times and jumped (rather than fell) off. Its scary that last hard move. Pretty impressive stuff.



Got involved with Stamina band and had a rubbish go. Rested up and had a really good go, getting into the drop down at the end of powerband. Really pleased as the reason I fell off there was that the slight suggestion of damp from the transition pocket had left my fingers in less than ideal condition, so really think it could be on if it gets any drier. Coupled with the warmth and humidity then cooler drier conditions could spell success.

Human hairball John Coefield arrives to pap Dave, who, it transpires, has been tipping off local photographers that he will be there this evening. Ready to rush off to the car to get the rollers in, I'm disappointed to hear that I will not be featuring in any pictures, and that apparently pics of an underachieving donkey flailing on Staminaband are unsaleable. I get my camera out to contribute to the media frenzy and take some ok pictures. Think Cofe is glad of the support and of my considerable photographic experience.

Cofe and I agree that if people were dogs then Dave would be a whippet. He looks super lean. I cant think of the name for the one that Cofe would be. Its the one with tightly curled slightly blue hair, but I dont know what type that is. He said I would be a Yorkshire terrier, and would be rutting on everyones leg. I had a look on Wikipedia to try and find what dog it was I thought he would be, but I dont know the name so am stuck. I know someone who has one, so I will text them and find out what sort of dog it is, and fill this bit in later.

Starting to tire, decide to have a go on Ben's roof and feel in complete control until I tear a massive split. Bugger. Go home. Back on Saturday, and although there is a horrendous weather warning in place tomorrow, am hopeful it might not have made its way through to the Stamina band pockets by then.

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