Morning! (well, it was when I wrote this)
On Friday night, Honey and I went for a Curry which was lovely. Saturday was for once nice weather. Jumped in the car and blazed a trail to the Tor. Pleasantly suprised by conditions, cold, breezy and pretty much dry. Started to warm up and almost immeadiately I knew I wasnt going to be setting the world on fire that morning. Don't know why, but I didn't feel great when climbing. I felt fine in myself but it was hard work just moving about on the rock for some reason. Resolved to drink more coffee and take it slowly. Moved camp down to the power band, and whilst not bone dry it wasn't bad - I've climbed there in worse. Another chap was having a go on powerhumps so I joined in as there's less mental application required to get to the top. Moved on to staminaband and climbed confidently into the powerband slots before stuffing the transition. Feeling quite ok though now, so perhaps I've warmed up after all. Strong French guy turns up and flashes rattle and hump start. He has a go on the powerband and flashes to the middle pillar - stuffing the drop down. Good effort SFG. Have a couple more goes on staminaband, but I feel like I am going backwards, getting the egyptian in to match the undercuts I am aware that there's something not right, and rather than fighting through I step off.
The three of us (SFG, powerhumps man and me) move to Ben's Roof. Joe and Vik turn up. Ted is in the roof doing well but not completing it. Exchange some beta for the direct finish and have a quick go on the end. I think I have it pretty wired now as it feels ok. Have a go from the start and climb well into the second egyptian but the skin on my left hand feels murderous - its like I am crimping a razor in the roof and I cant grit my teeth enough to get through the move. Hmm. A bit disappointed I step off and thats the end of the useful goes. Pretty much pack up and fcuk off. Hang out with the monster in the afternoon, doing some shopping and ultimately watching 28 days later in the evening. Its scary. Run on Sunday.
Its funny, you need to really want it to be able to climb at the tor. I suppose it would be the same anywhere you've spent a lot of time. I think my body was trying to say ; hey, lets take it easy today, I fancy bimbling around a bit, don't push too hard, but thats never enough for me. Ah well. I suppose you cant always be on it. Tonight rings/campus, tomorrow climb, weds 10of5, thurs/fri nowt - Saturday comp glory.
1 comment:
I feel like we live parallel lives :(
Me and Lu got to the Tor about 13:00 and saw SFG and Le saucisson
Went back on Sunday with Char and managed a massive link on PUTP. Which was nice. Still can't do the last move on Powerband though which just goes to show you how weird peoples personal strenghs are. My mate Iain did the last move 1st go and then could pretty much lap it!
Horses for courses me thinks
I know what you mean about needing to feel strong/psyched at the Tor. I think there is little point going there when you feel shit. It takes a while to get into the groove of the routes and problems and thus negative/bad engrams just fuck up progress
Would love to climb at the school tonight but I'm off to London again tomorrow (how did that happen so quick) and will spend tonight with Lucy. I might be able to squeeze in an hour though........
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