Wednesday, 18 July 2007

A Magic grades ticklist

Jealously I write this ticklist for James who is going to Magic Wood with Jim, Lee and Ned.

Jim and Lee have been before, so they know the way about the forest and some cool stuff to do. But for the new boys, there are undoubtedly some classics to get done :

1: Blown away (7a+) - super classic ramp climbing to a slightly highball (but steady) finish.
2: Red Roses (7b) - Nice climbing. Jim has all beta.
3: La Dance (7b) down on the river bed by the bruno bloc, thrutchy mantel, entertaining.
4: Protektor (7a+) fabulous roof into a hanging slab, teeter straight to top. Terrifying, but brilliant.
5: Fool fighter (7c) next to sofa surfer, fun board like faint arete.
6: Cote d'un Seshuan (7c/8a) - edges, slopers and a dyno to finish! the problem with everything. Genius.
7: Gritstone problem (7a) entertaining slopers in idllyic setting beside the river. Lovely.
8: Die undielichte Gesichte pt2 (8a) take a spotter and rob all the pads you can get your hands on. Chipped.
9: Supernova (7c) was 8b, downgraded after Randy Puro did it in his approach shoes! loads of skullduggery, clamping up a hanging arete on the bruno.
10: Octopussy (8a), jump to a sloper then match the lip and on upwards. Low in grade.
11: Jacks broken heart (8a+) campussing through a roof on edges. Fabulous.
12: Pura vida (8b - its not) edges. Bad landing.

I'll think of some more as the day goes on...

4 comments:

Unknown said...

nice one!
i'll be sure to get on the 8's..

Anonymous said...

check out Zilliman, 7a+. best prob anywhere near this grade in the wood.

Nigel said...

Also worth looking out for "Mythical Gritstone Arete". Don't ask me where it is, I can't remember. Its pretty hard to find when you're looking for it, but easy to stumble upon when you're already lost, if you know what I mean. Prob 7a+ wierd mantelling and smearing, not in the guide - waddage.
You could also try my new problem. Its on the big mossy boulder visible from the path, it sits just in front of Kamel Sector I think. Climb up to the quartz vein starting on the left, follow the quartz on crumbling jugs to a slopey top. Mmmmmm!
Also Slip, Slap, Slop 7a next to Grit Deluxe is ace.

Slap Holds! said...

crush em all!