It stopped raining on Tuesday. I finished work early and went to Burbage North for half an hour. It was still quite wet, but I hadn't gone to try anything hard, just to get some skin burnt off before Swiss. It didn't work. As I only climbed on the polished bit I might as well have sanded - except it was more fun than sanding.
Last night I went to the works. I had to meet Roy to talk training, and to sort out some IT stuff for the works. IT stuff for them never takes as long as it should - it always takes about three times longer. Anyway, its all good, the infrastructure is a changing. Set out to climb some easy stuff and discovered Lucy Atkinson who announced that she is pregnant! Congratulations to them. Did some bimbling and sort of accidentally set off following Scouse on a green and pink circuit which traverses the entire building. Theres nothing hard but its quite tiring, and you do get in everyones way. Made it to the end, but it just oddly finishes in the middle of nowhere. It should push on back to the top of the back wall. Was then flash pumped and unable to recover. Note to self - warm up properly.
The comp wall has been painted blue. Looks nice. Could see three guys on the training wall, one had boreal logos stitched onto his pants, one had saggy brown pants with holes in the knees (who could this be) and the other had the same hairstyle he has always had, but I had only ever seen it before in the power of climbing - wowzers! its jasper sharpe! I trot over, hoping I can live up to the white pants (which I have now managed to rip the fly zip nearly completely off) and get involved with some of the easier problems - feel ok climbing, but am still pumped out of my mind. Take the piss out of Justin for wearing the same brown pants for the last 15 years and he explains that they are lucky. Seems lucky pants are not a new invention. Percy joins in the Justin baiting and the focus moves to his facial hair. Get talking to Jasper who nearly does a crimpy red thing thats supposed to be 8a. EuroWad with Boreal pants has a go and looks like he could do it comfortably. The Plumtree steps up, but his lucky pants must be wearing out as he doesn't stick the move. Now, i know I have tried this once before and couldnt do any of it, so I fully expect to get shut down but I suprise myself and do the first move easily, brilliant! nearly do the second move but have hit the hold wrong, not to worry, I know its feasible. Jasper has fingers of steel. He claims not to be very strong in the arms, but quite clearly it doesn't matter!
Roy arrives and we talk about training. Feel sure that he could really help me reach the next level. After discussion he suggests that I have short circuited my way to where I am, and that the short circuit will become obvious - basically, he is talking about mileage. The benefit of building up skills as opposed to strength. I know (and have known for ages) that I have misconceptions about training, that I want to feel like I have had a workout, which means I will choose to go to the board when its not perfect conditions thinking I will get more out of my limited time. He suggests that ultimately, I will get more out of the board if I take a step back and put in the ground work at actually climbing, because I will be able to use strength more efficiently and climb better. I know really that he is right, but for me to really embrace this I will have to put away years of laboring under the training misaprehension and its quite terrifying to be honest! Clifford always said much the same too. Well, it might be the gateway to the next level!
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